Day 210 - 29th December, La Fonda - El Sauzal, 26.26 miles

Vcera vecer prisiel dalsi bajker, mlady Sved, co sem pripedaloval z Aljasky a ide do Brazilie na svetovy pohar vo futbale. Opustame Ianov podivny hotel a vydavame sa do Ensenady, resp. do mestecka pred nim, do El Sauzal, tu sme uz dohodnutí s Juanom, dalsim warmshoweristom. Akurat, ze malickost, vcera akosi skolabovala dialnica do Ensenady, takze nas caka jazda po starej dialnici klukatiacej sa cez hory (zato vsak po stabilnejsom terene). Takze dnes sme mali svoj prvy krst, mysleli sme si, ze po takejto ceste pojdeme az kdesi za Ensenadou. No cesta bola uzka, to je fakt, a kym sa vystverala na sirokansku nahornu plosinu, celkom sme sa zapotili v strmom kopci a zakrutach, so skalnou stenou po pravici a strmym zrazom po lavici. Obavali sme sa premavky a veru nebola prijemna, aj ked zdaleka to nebolo tak zle ako sme si mysleli, ze to bude. Policia totiz pustala auta po davkach, takze po prejdeni kolony (co sme obcas radsej preckali mimo cesty), sme mali zopar minut prazdnej cesty. Navyse kym sme sa nedostali na planinu, tak auta nemohli ist o moc rychlejsie ako my. Jednak im v tom branili zakruty a jednak spomalovace na ceste, ktore tu v Mexiku su fakt brutalne vysoke, pokial sofer nespomalí na minimum, tak ma velku sancu ze zlomi napravu. Neviem ci to bolo tym, ze bol vikend, ale ani kamionov sme vela nemali. Tak trochu som ocakaval, ze soferi na nas budu hromzit, ze im blokujeme uz tak uzku cestu. Boli sme prijemne prekvapeni, ze opak bol pravdou. Skoro vsetci nas zdravili, mavali nam, blikali, pozdravne zatrubili ci ukazali "palec hore". Najlepsia bola kolona kamionov, ktora sa v tom najhorsom useku vyvalila z protismeru (to sme akurat doplnovali tekutiny mimo cesty) a kazdy sofer nas s usmevom na tvari pozdravil, zjavne im vobec nevadila strma cesta a utes par centimetrov od ich kolies. Mexicky soferi su zrejme veľkí pohodaci. Hore na planine sa otvoril pekny vyhlad na vsadepritomne hory, tu uz to islo trochu rychlejsie, skoro po rovine a rovnej ceste. V stanku na okraji cesty sme si kupili plny pohar melonu (nebol velmi lacny, ale bolo hnusne teplo), co sme nepochopili, ze ten melon okorenili niecim takym ako je grilovacie korenie, mysleli sme si, ze to bude skorica :-). Dole k oceanu a El Sauzal nas cakal paradny zjazd, akymsi zazrakom to bolo skoro bez premavky. Najst nasho dnesneho hostitela bol trochu problem, nieco take, ako nazvy ulic, sa tu moc nenosi a uz vobec nie cisla domov, nechapem ako tu funguje posta. Nakoniec sme Juanovi zovolali, len aby sme zistili, ze stojime priamo pod jeho oknom, z ktoreho sme ho poculi skor, ako z telefonu :-). Vecer nas spolu so svojou zenou Dianne zobrali do pravej mexickej restauracie a dali sme si nejake dalsie miestne speciality, obsahovalo to vela masa a este viac zeleniny, tradicne sa k tomu zajedali tortilly, dali sme si este aj nejake miestne pitivo (Sebada - tajuplny mliecny napoj, Jamaica - tajuplna cervena malinovka a tajuplne kukuricno-mliecne cosi menom Atole), vsetko to velmi dobre chutilo. Prekvapivo, ak toto tu bola prava mexicka kuchyna, tak vobec nebola neznesitelne stiplava a prezili sme to bez najmensej ujmy na zdravi.
Ozaj skoro by som zabudol, dnes sme zdolali nas prvy 10 000 bicyklovy kilometer :-)

Day 209 - 28th December, La Fonda

Dalsi oddychovy den. Treba nabrat sily pred prechodom cez Baju :-). Citame si a prechadzame sa po plazi, Baska sa opat ide vykupat do oceanu, respektive oplieskat vlnami. Na moj vkus je voda prilis studena a vlny prilis velke, okrem Basky sa nikto nekupe, zato surferov je tu plno. Nad hlavou nam obcas preleti motorove rogalo, zabavka pre bohatsich turistov (okolo 50$ za chvilku vo vzduchu). Je krasny zapad slnka, ale zase sa nam nepodarilo vidiet onu povestnu zelenu ziaru, ze vraj v momente ked zapadne slnko, ak su dobre podmienky, sa cely obzor na okamzik sfarbi do zelena.

Day 208 - 27th December, Rosarito - La Fonda, 13.5 miles

Opustame Roberta a jeho milu rodinku, na rozlucku si davame este v ich stanku s tacos vyborne tacos pescado, co je tacos s rybou, miestne to ulovenou. Ideme iba zopar mil, po male letovisko La Fonda, kde ostavame u Skota menom Ian, dalsieho warmshoweristu, ktory spolu so svojou dvanastrocnou dcerou vedu hostel pre surferov menom Young Dudes. Osadka hotelu je hodne svojrazna, je tu jedna podivna mlada zidovska rodinka co od rana do vecera surfuje, zopar dalsich Americanov co nesurfuju, my a potom Ian so svojou dcerou a psom. Zda sa, ze cely hotel vedie viac Ianova dcera nez Ian, ktory cely den travi pozeranim futbalu a fajcenim jedneho jointa za druhym.

Day 206 - 207, 25th-26th December, Rosarito, Christmas break :-)

Na prvy sviatok vianocny ostavame verni tradicii (v Baskinej rodine), ze treba sa vystverat na nejaky kopec. Roberto nas berie na El Coronell, najvyssi kopec v okoli, svaty megaJezis je oproti nemu uplny pidizvik. Najprv prechadzame cez vyprahle policka (tu sa na poliach pestuju aj kaktusy), potom malym udolim, kde su celkom pekne stromy, prechadzame popri dalsich farmach, naberame vysku, kratka pauza v dalsom malom lesiku a potom sa skriabeme kolmo hore, az na samy vrchol El Coronella. Zrazu sme hore, duje tu poriadny vietor, je prijemne chladno a cela Baja od Tijuany po Ensenadu nam lezi pod nohami. Kdesi kolmo dole sa belie Jezisovo rucho, teraz len mala bodka. Zostup po chodnickoch uz je menej krkolomny, skoro zaslapujem jasterku, nastastie hady teraz v "zime" vraj spia. Schadzame do dalsej doliny, vsetko naokolo je riadne suche, rastu tu len nejake zakrsle kriaky, kaktusy tu zatial moc nevidno (iba na poliach). Preliezame zopar plotov na tunajsich rancoch, tu to nikomu nevadi, a caka nas dlhy pochod naspat k Robertovmu domu. No oproti tradicnej vianocnej ture sme to trochu prepiskli, cely okruh, ktory sme spravili, mohol mat nieco cez 20 km, a prevysenie asi bolo tiez slusne. U Roberta sa davame trochu dokopy, vecer sme pozvani na dalsiu vianocnu hostinu, tentoraz k Robertovej sestre, co byva kusok opodial. Opat tu stretavame kopec Robertovych pribuznych a znamych a opat tu je kopec vyborneho jedla. Robertov svagor je navyse naozajstny expert vo vareni, takze vsetko je naservirovane ako keby sme boli v prvotriednej restauracii. Keby to u nas bolo mozne, nase bruska by sa uz zacali pekne zagulatovat.

Druhy sviatok vianocny je venovany relaxu, nikam nejdeme, cely den oddychujeme, vyvalujeme sa a citame si.

Day 205 - 24th December, Rosarito

Vianoce oslavujeme v letnych satach, kedze je slnecno a 25 stupnov, stanujeme na terase domu na utese priamo nad oceanom a co je najlepsie - dostali sme pozvanie od milej mexickej rodiny na vianocnu veceru.
Vecer sa u Roberta a jeho rodicov zislo skoro cele okolie, kopec znamych a priatelov, zopar z nich aj z USA a skoro vsetci vedeli nieco po anglicky, takze o zaujimave konverzacie nebola nudza. Vsetci nam vsak hovorili jedno, niet bezpecnejsieho miesta na svete, nez je Baja a aj napriek uzkym cestam si Baju istotne zamilujeme :-). Okostovali sme zopar tradicnych mexickych jedal ako su napr. tamali (v ceste uvarene maso a zelenina  a cele je to zabalene v kukuricnych listoch), nechybal ani tradicny moriak, k tomu kopec zeleniny a rozne druhy zemiakov (tu je tolko roznych zemiakov... a to je este nic oproti Juznej Aomerike).
Inak darceky tu nikto moc neriesil, tie co boli pod stromcekom boli hlavne pre Robertovu patrocnu dceru. Otvarali ich az na dalsi den, ale nerobili z toho taky poprast ako sa zvykne u nas, ci US.
Vecer, ked uz nebolo tak rusno, nam Roberto dal kopec informacii o ceste na juh Baja, sam tuto cestu pred par rokmi absolvoval na bajku, takze sme mali kopec cennych udajov.

No biking today, we are in Rosarito, enjoying beautiful and warm sunny weather, the ocean, having the cycling Christmas break and looking forward to the Christmas dinner. Roberto, our warmshowers host, with his family were so nice and invited us to spend Christmas with them :-)

Day 204 - 23rd December, Tijuana - Rosarito, 35 km

Rano vyberame nejaku hotovost z nasho slovenskeho uctu, funguje to bez problemov, akurat mexicke banky si za kazdy vyber uctuju 30$ (pesos), co su necele 3$ (US dolare, 1 US$ = cca 12$ pesos) a mBanka si uctuje 1.2 Eur pokial vyberieme menej ako 80 Eur, stale lepsie ako banky v USA, kde za vyber z cudzieho bankomatu sme zaplatili okolo 5$, ak chces s ich kartou platit mimo USA tak to tiez stalo okolo 5$. Kartami sa tu v Mexiku platit moc nevyplaca, pokial pustite kreditku z ruky, mate velku sancu, ze si ju niekto skopiruje, hlavne tu v Tijuane je to skoro pravidlo, preto treba pri plateni kartou vzdy ukazovat aj nejake ID, aj ked velmi to asi nepomaha. Takze prax je, vybrat hotovost, zasit ju niekam do treniek a platit len hotovostou (aj ked domacich sme vzdy videli iba pouzivat karty, teda tam kde sa dalo, o mexicke kreditky asi nie je taky zaujem...). Lucime sa s nasimi warmshowers hostitelmi Gerardom Elvisom a jeho manzelkou Liz, vdaka ktorym sme prezili prve dni v tomto divokom, najnebezpecnejsom mexickom meste, aj ked ukazuje sa, ze to Mexiko zdaleka nebude take nebezpecne, armada bojuje s drogovym kartelom len dakde daleko vo vnutrozemi, tu vojaci nosia pusky hlavne na ozdobu, drogovy kartel stavia skoly a nemocnice, nikto tu neumiera hladom, aj ked nema pracu, deti su svate a ak sa o nich nestaraju rodicia, postara sa sused (rovnake je to so psami), mexicania su tichi, skromni ludia (aspon vacsina z nich) a hladia si svojho (ak to akurat nie je predavac v obchode so suvenirmi) a ako sme sa coskoro presvedcili na vlastnej kozi, su velmi pohostinni. Pre nas, aj ked po viac ako roku v zhyckanej, rozmaznanej a paranoidnej USA, to bol mierny sok, ale zase ked to porovnam s takym Rumunskom, tak jediny rozdiel je v tom, ze tu je viacej paliem a kaktusov. A az velmi rychlo sme si zvykli na vsadepritomny bordel, v tomto sme si beztak skoro zarovno.
Z Tijuany sme museli prejst do Rosarita, kde bola nasa dalsia zastavka u dalsieho warmshoweraka, cez riadny kopec. Desili sme sa hlavne hlavnej cesty so sialenou premavkou (ako sa zdalo), no nebolo to lahke, ale boli sme milo prekvapeni, aj ked nas Elvis varoval, ze tunajsi soferi nie su zvyknuti na cyklistov, aj napriek absencii krajnice a hustej premavke, sme nemali ziadne velke problemy. Najvacsim problemom bol smrad z aut, strmy kopec a teploty okolo 30ºC. Este sme s laskou spominali na "vonave" auta v USA (ono ten etanol v benzine asi ma nejaky vyznam, aj ked ho v USA palia z kukurice, vdaka comu zdvihli cenu kukurice skoro dvojnasobne nielen v US ale aj inde, co sa vraj dost negativne odrazilo hlavne tu v Mexiku, kde je kukurica hlavnou zlozkou ich stravy). Ale z kopca, nechavajuc zrazu Tijuanu za sebou, sme uz frcali na "cerstvom vzduchu" a aj premavka sa vyrazne zmensila, Rosarito nas privitalo nekonecnou radou obchodov predavajucich tie iste veci, hlavne keramiku a rozne kovane ozdoby, brany, ci zarucene betonove fontanky a sochy z mramoru a vobec kopec kadejakych gycov. Kto to kupuje, ked to iste predava asi tak 50 obchodikov na oboch stranach cesty?
Nas dalsi hostitel, Roberto, zije pod gigantickou sochou Jezisa, nieco ako socha slobody v New Yorku, akurat ze Jezis je o kusok mensi, ale len o kusok. Privital nas Robertov brat, taky spravny hasisak a hned nas ubytoval na verande susedneho domu, kde byvaju jeho priatelia, ktori vsak tu su iba cez vikend, takze kludne mozeme bivakovat na ich verande, ktora je hned na hrane utesu, asi tak 20 metrov pod nami sumi ocean a na vlnach sa prehanaju surferi. Jezis na nas hladi spoza mura ozdobeneho ostatym drotom, Robertovi susedia su evidentne z USA. Miestecko je to vyborne, sme tu perftektne zasiti pred celym "zlym" Mexikom a s paradnym vyhladom na ocean. Dávame si sprchu pod holým nebom, po nej sa kocháme západom slnka. Na zaver nas Roberto len tak mimochodom pozval na zajtra na ich rodinnu vianocnu veceru :-)

Day 203 - 22nd December, Tijuana, no biking today :-)

Nasi hostitelia z Tijuany s nami isli na hranicu, comu sme boli velmi radi, lebo bez nich by sme boli strateni, vobec by sme netusili, kam mame ist (to sice netusili ani oni, ale oni sa aspon mohli lahko kohokolvek spytat), cez zopar pohodovych mexickych pohraniciarov vo vianocnej nalade (niektori aj so Santaclausovskou capicou na hlave :-D) sme sa dopracovali k US, ktoremu sme dali nas zeleny papierik (ocividne mu odlahlo, ze to bolo s nami take jednoduche a nemusel riesit dalsich Mexicanov, co sa chcu pristahovat do USA :-D). Potom sme mali poznavaciu prechadzku po Tijuane (predavaci boli pekne otravni, tak ako sa na exoticke krajiny slusi a patri :-)) a Tijuanskej plazi (tu zase boli otravni a hrozne hlucni mariachi, tak ako sa na dobre mravy slusi a patri) rozdelenej obrovskym zeleznym, vo dne v noci strazenym murom, za ktorym je USA. Na mure boli velke fotky z podobne nezmyselnych hranicnych zatarasov z roznych inych koncin sveta... Smutne... hlavne vidiet rodiny mavajuce si spoza mura, ktore sa nemozu stretnut, len preto, ze sa niekto rozhodol, ze tam bude neprekonatelna ciara... (aj ked, ako sme sa dozvedeli od Gerarda, nasho hostitela, pod zemou je vykopanych niekolko tunelov, o ktorych sa oficialne "nevie".) Navrat v noci, mestkou hromadnou dopravou, uz mal ten spravny zavan exotiky, aj ked v porovnani s nasou MHD to zas tak velky rozdiel nebol (snad len ze tu nie je jasne, kde su zastavky a neexistuje cestovny poriadok, listok stoji len 10$ - znacka pre dolare a pesos je rovnaka, to aby to bolo pre cudzincov zrozumitelnejsie a autobusy tu obcas soferuju deti :-))

Day 202 - 21st December, San Diego - Tijuana, 24 miles

Je to az neuveritelne, aky to je rozdiel snazit sa dostat do roznych krajin sveta - v zavislosti na ich pocite vlastnej dolezitosti... Do USA vedie vzdy iba jedna jasna cesta, prisne strazena, treba mat pas stale v pohotovosti, rovnako ako odpovede na vsetecne otazky a ak sa opovazite zabudnut si dat dole slnecne okuliare, tak to uz je hned takmer dokaz vasej teroristickej cinnosti... Nehovoriac o podozrivosti hocicoho, co mate so sebou. Kedze sme uz boli zvyknuti na takyto postup, mexicka verzia prechodu hranice nas dost zaskocila, vyzeralo to totiz asi tak: ocitli sme sa v chaose ludi a aut, nikde ani indicia, kam by sme tak asi mali ist, len od cyklistov, ktorych sme stretli vcera, sme vedeli, ze mame ist s chodcami. Tak sme sa tak preplietali v dave ponahlajucich sa ludi (vacsina z nich si za sebou tahala velky kufor plny vianocnych nakupov), presli zeleznou branou a dalej sa prebojovavali uzkou ulickou rozne sa klukatiacou, obcas sa rozdvojujucou (vacsinou nebolo jasne, kam vedie, nikde ziadny napis, vacsinou sme teda nasledovali vacsi dav), lemovanou obchodnikmi so vsetkym moznym, zobrakmi a obcas na rohu stal po zuby ozbrojeny vojak so samopalom. Ale stale ani naznak nejakej pasovej kontroly.. A zrazu sa uzka ulicka otvorila v siroky priestor a to uz sme si nevedeli rady, tak sa pytame postavajuceho uniformovaneho Mexicana, kadial do Mexika? "Ved tu ste uz v Mexiku, tu je Tijuana". "A co passport control?" "Ak chcete peciatku do pasu, tak chodte do Mexico immigration office v meste". No to teda chceme peciatku do pasu, potrebujeme predsa dokaz, ze sme USA opustili v stanovenom termine, nie ze po nas o par tyzdnov americka vlada zahaji velke celonarodne patranie, co nam slubovali, ze sa stane, ak na hranici vcas neodovzdame ten extremne dolezity zeleny papierik, co mame v pase... No a to sa len zacala ta spravna zabava, kazdy koho sme sa spytali nas posielal niekam inam (po spanielsky alebo rucne, anglictina sa tu zda sa prilis nenosi), celkom sme sa nabehali, kym sme konecne nasli tu spravnu budovu s tymi spravnymi policajtami. Pracovna moralka sa velmi lisi od US pohraniciarov, ktori su prisne skoleni byt "drsnakmi", neusmiat sa ani za svet a ukazovat svetu, ze oni su ti najdolezitejsi, ktorych treba posluchat a este lepsie sa ich aj bat... Oproti tomu taki mexicki pohraniciari si veselo debatuju, nikam sa neponahlaju, s usmevom na tvari si vypocuju, aky mame problem, potom sa chvilku radia (zjedia pri tom jednu či dve koblihy), ako ho vyriesit a napokon teda jeden z nich je zvoleny ako nas sprievodca na miesto M, kde nam teda konecne pozru ten pas a daju donho peciatku, ked uz tolko chceme. Bicykle mame nechat tu, co sa nam nie prilis pozdava, ale ubezpecuju nas, ze na ne daju pozor (a naozaj dali, všetko bolo úplne v poriadku). Presli sme teda este po moste do inej budovy, navstivili potrebne dve okienka (s podobne pohodovou pracovnou moralkou), zaplatili kazdy 25 dolarov a konecne na to, ze sme tu, mame papier. Ale ten nestastny zeleny papierik si nezobrali, to si mame vyriesit s USA, takze budeme musiet prejst znova tym hranicnym bludiskom, aby sme ho odovzdali. Ale to si nechame az na zajtra, teraz uz je najvyssi cas ist na miesto stretnutia s nasimi hostitelmi. warmshowers.org - je stranka pre dialkovych cyklistov a hostitelov, ktori im ponukaju miesto na prespatie, teplu sprchu... Niektori dokonca aj dobru veceru. Vyborna myslienka, v poslednej dobe sme to zacali hojne vyuzivat, najma pri prechode cez L.A. to bolo velmi uzitocne. Okrem toho, ze pride vhod pohodlne miesto na prespatie, tepla sprcha ci moznost oprat si pradlo, stretavame takto mnozstvo skvelych ludi a obcas sa nam aj postasti byt v spravnom case na spravnom mieste a zucastnit sa napr. Vianocnej party s detskym hudobnym recitalom (tiez som prispela do programu a zahrala zopar slovenskych ludovych a kolied) alebo si s hostitelkou zajst do kina na Hobbita. Nasi dnesni hostitelia nam ale prisli obvzlast vhod, lebo tak mame bezpecne miesto na stravenie noci v tejto casti Mexika s nie dobrou povestou a kedze vedia trocha po anglicky, velmi nam pomohli s nasim prvym dnom, s vymenou penazi, dali cenne rady na cestovanie po Mexiku a napisali zopar uzitocnych fraz v spanielcine. Zajtra tu este s nimi pobudneme (maju sice velmi maly a skromny pribytok, ale radi sa s nami podelia a poskytnu nam pristresie vraj kludne aj na tyzden). Na pondelok uz mame dohodnuteho dalsieho hostitela v najblizsom meste. A kde stravime Vianoce? Nechajme sa prekvapit :-) Aj ked pri kazdodennej teplote 15-25 stupnov nam to stale Vianoce akosi nepripomina, ani tie vianocne nazdobene palmy a vsadepritomni Santaclausovia velmi nepomahaju :-D. Este trocha cisel: uz sme na ceste viac ako 200 dni a uz len par poslednych kilometrov nam zostava do jubilejnej 10 000.

Day 201 - 20th December, San Diego, 11.48 miles

Dnes sme jazdili po okoli Merllovho domu a zhanali po bajksopoch nove plaste, duse, zaplaty, spajle, retaze, osemkolecko, brzdy, skratka zajtra opustame USA a chceme mat bicykle v akom takom poriadku. Nakoniec sa nam podarilo vsetko zohnat, aj ked najst poriadne plaste bolo dost obtiazne, nakoniec sme ich dostali v obchode, ktory sme navstivili ako prvy a potom este raz uplne na zaver, ked sme sa pytali prvy krat tak nemali vhodnu sirku, po druhy krat sa im odniekadial podarilo vyhrabat zhruba to co sme potrebovali :-) este som mal s tunajsimi mechanikmi filozoficku chvilku o tom ci menit loziska a stredy alebo nie... nakoniec sme skonstatovali, ze netreba, ono aj tak by sme na to nemali peniaze. Po vsetkych nakupoch nam ostalo na americkych uctoch menej nez 300$, a nasi nam este poslali vianocny darcek, 400 eur. To jest nasa momentalna hotovost, kym nedorazia peniaze od First Meritu, co nebude skor ako za mesiac (ak vobec :-)), no aspon nas nebudu mat mexicky banditi, tolko slubovani, skoro vsetkymi USAncanmi o co ozbijat :-)

Day 200 - 19th December, San Elijo SB - La Jolla - San Diego, 35.17 miles

Dnes prichádzame do San Diega. Ráno je zamračené a trocha popŕcha. Okolo kempu prefičí tlupa bajkerov, neskôr míňame ich naložené bajky, zaparkované pred pizzeriou. Keď si v malom parčíku dávame obed, dobiehajú oni nás a čuduj sa svete, je s nimi aj Kiri, ktorú sme stretli, spolu s jej priateľom, takmer pred mesiacom na ceste do San Francisca, keď sme sa lúčili s Brook, ktorá potom pokračovala s nimi. No slovo dalo slovo a do San Diega ideme všetci spolu, musela to byť celom dobrá podívaná, taká kavaléria siedmich naložených bajkerov. Ale bolo to super ísť v takej tlupe. Prekvapivo chvilu prsi, dokonca aj tu v tomto kute sveta, kde je vraj stale slnecno a teplo. Prichadzame k Torrey Preserve, co je kus pieskovcoveho utesu, ktory asi nebol vhodny na zastavanie, tak tu maju kusok borovicoveho lesika (vraj sú to miestne endemické borovice) a nejake pieskovcove skaliska a fantasticky vyhlad. Ale treba sa vystverat na riadne strmy kopec. Finn, Veternikov dvojnik :-), dostal na kopci defekt, co sa dalo ocakavat, kedze mal na jednom mieste obrovsku predratu dieru na plasti. Samozrejme, podobne ako moj brat, nemal so sebou nic na opravu, ale kedze nas bolo sedem, nebol problem najst zaplaty. Po prvy krat som videl, ze diera v plasti sa da vyspravit aj pomocou jednodolarovej bankovky (kedze nie je z papiera), za chvilu sme uz mohli ist. Vodcom nasej tlupy bol chalan menom Jonathan, ktory tu studoval na Kalifornskej universite, ktora bola po ceste, takze sme si trocha pozreli univerzitny kempus, trochu to pripominalo nasu Komenskeho univerzitu, rovnake kockate budovy a kachlicky :-), akurat tu to nevyzeralo tak osuntelo.
Pred La Jolla sa odpojil Finn a Kiri, isli k Merleovi, nasmu dnesnemu warmshowers hostitelovi, ako sme zistili, zide sa nas tam pomerne dost, aj ked vacsina z nasej skupinky ostava u inych znamych, niekde v San Diegu, ale za nami idu este dalsi bajkeri a Merle ma evidentne velku zahradu :-) Takze Finn a Kiri sa odpajaju, my ostavame s ostatnymi a prechadzame este cez La Jolla, celkom pekne to predmestie, stvrt, mestecko? pred San Diegom. Na utesoch tu nocuju pelikany a na plazach sa vyvaluju tulene, nevsimajuc si tesnu blizkost okukujucich turistov. Do San Diega vchadzame uz tradicne potme, nastastie je tu kopec cyklociest, na hlavne cesty sa skoro ani nedostaneme. Prechadzame udolim, trochu pripominajucim Mlynsku dolinu :-), ked sa spusti poriadny lejak, v momente sa vsade valia prudy vody, nasa naivna predstava, ze to za chvilu prejde nevysla, takze slapeme premoknuti do nitky. Z tych 30 cm zrazok, co tu maju za cely rok, sme museli vychytit aspon 10 cm. Slapeme v tomto necase asi hodinu, konecne pri zdolani posledneho kopca (asi ako z Mlynskej Doliny k hradu :-)), prestava prsat. Nastastie nie je velmi chladno. Merle nas privetivo privital, je to taky spravny pohodak, ani sme mu velmi nemuseli rozpravat celu historiu Ceskoslovenska a podobne. To je trochu nevyhoda pri warmshowers, ze hostitelia sa prirodzene zaujimaju o to, ze odkial ste a ako to u vas chodi, takze skoro zakazdym opakujete tie iste veci znovu a znovu. Okolnosti rozdelenia Ceskoslovenska som si nikdy tolko nestudoval ako teraz, ludia si casto myslia, ze to u nas bolo ako v Juhoslavii. Navyse sme asi prvi Slovaci co zavitali do tychto koncin na bicykloch, kazdopadne nikto z warmshowers este nemal tu cest hostit Slovakov, tak dufam, ze sme nespravili hanbu :-). U Merleho stretavame Kiri a Finna, ostatni este nedorazili. Rozbijame stan a zaliezame do teplych, suchych spacakov, je fajn ze Ortlieb tasky su stale nepremokave. Neskoro vecer dorazili dalsi dvaja bajkeri, jedneho z nich pozname, Rachel sme tiez stretli na ceste do San Francisca.

Day 199 - 18th December, San Elijo State Beach, no biking today

Dnes ostávame v kempe, máme oddychový deň, dozvedáme sa že konečne dorazil šek s našimi peniazmi od SaraJane, dobrá služba (pre USA poštu), zaplatíte si 45$ za expresnú zásielku do zahraničia, ktorá má doraziť do 3-5 dni a po desiatich dňoch ju máte ako na koni (obyčajná pohľadnica prišla skôr) :-) a keď zisťujete kde zásielka je, pošta vám nedá žiadne informácie, pretože to už má na starosti iná firma (od ktorej sme sa akurát dozvedeli že zásielka je na ceste), ale aspoň že už ten šek konečne dorazil, prvý či poslala SaraJane obyčajnou poštou nedorazil vôbec a za jeho storno nám úžasná First Merit zobrala vyše 30$. Niet nad tento tu dokonalý systém, bohužiaľ dokonalý len pre bohatých aby boli ešte bohatší...

Day 198 - 17th December, Oceanside - Carlsbad - San Elijo State Beach, 16.37 miles

Nancy a Stan su blazni do kolibrikov, maju ich vsade, na obrazkoch, na tapetach, ale hlavne na zahrade, kde za tymto ucelom maju niekolko krmitiek. Kolibrici zjavne vedia, kde su vitani, bolo ich tu kopec. Baske sa podarilo zopar peknych fotiek. Po kralovskych ranajkach sme sa rozlucili a pobrali sa dalej, Stan a Nancy nam na cestu prichystali balicky so sendvicmi, jablkom a cokoladou, skoro ako v skole prirode a potom isli na pohreb jedneho ich znameho z nemocnice, kde pracuju ako dobrovolnici (tu si vacsinou ludia na penzii sunky nevalaju, ale stale nieco robia, minimalne aspon ako dobrovolnici, dobrovolnictvo tu je naozaj vysoko cenene a hlavne su tu pre to vytvorene dobre podmienky). Takze sme sa vratili k oceanu, preplietajuc sa viac ci menej honosnou zastavbou. Cele pobrezie je tu uz kontinualne zastavane, zvacsa hotely a sukromne plaze, k vode sa len tak nedostanete, rozhodne nie zadarmo... pre USA viac ako typicke. Presli sme len po San Elijo State Beach a zostali v tunajsom kempe, akosi na nas zacinaju dolahavat prejdene kilometre (uz je to skoro 10 000 km) a tak si davame zase pauzu. Mozno na nieco/niekoho cakame. Zvysok dna si citame a zase raz zaspavame za zvukov vln na nasich, teraz uz velmi rychlo tvrdych karimatkach.

Day 197 - 16th December, San Clemente - Oceanside, 42.6 miles

Rano este zbehneme vyvencit psa nasich hostitelov. Uz je to dlho co sme mali moznost robit nieco taketo. Pred obedom sa lucime s Weej a jej dcerou, ktora ma "domacu" skolu, Chris je v robote. Vraciame sa spat na pobrezie, cyklocesta vedie cez Camp Pendleton, jednej z poslednych velkych vojenskych zakladni v USA, ale vdaka nej nie je zastavane komplet cele pobrezie medzi L.A. a San Diegom. Aj ked, ideme po vedlajsich cestach, z vojenskej zakladne nemame dobry pocit, je tu taka divna atmosfera vo vzduchu, uz aby sme boli prec... Ale su tu aj pekne momentky, ako ked nam naproti vybehol road runner, nieco ako bazant a dudok dohromady. Presli sme okolo kasarni, kde sa opiciakovali zelenaci a konecne v Oceanside opustili oplotenu zakladnu. Dnes sme mali namierene ku prastrykovi a pratete SaraJane. Navygacia bola trocha zaludna, ich dom sa nachadzal pomerne vysoko v kopcoch, ale s pomocou googlumapy sme to nasli. SaraJaniny pribuzni (Stan a Nancy) boli skveli ludkovia, obaja uz staruciciky, ale postarali sa o nas ako o vlastnych, pripravili nam kralovsku veceru a opat sme spali v posteli. Pomaly uz zabudneme ake je to spat na tych nasich fuciacich nafukovackach...

Day 196 - 15th December, San Clemente, 13.5 miles

Dnes oddychujeme, citame si na plazi a Baska sa opat cvachta vo vlnach. Vecer nas Weej a jej manzel Chris, spolu aj s ich detmi, beru na ostrov Balboa, co je vlastne spat v Costa Mesa, takze si tuto cestu opat trochu pozrieme, len tentokrat z auta. Balboa je znamy svojou vianocnou vyzdobou nielen na domoch ale aj na obrovitanskych luxusnych jachtach. Veru blikatkami a hybatkami sa tu nesetrilo. Vlastne sme sem prisli na vianocny vecierok organizovany ucitelkou jazdy na konoch, co uci dceru nasich hostitelov. Vianocne vyzdoby boli vsade a vsakovake od hroznych gicov az po celkom pekne vyzdobene domceky, pred niektorymi domami sa schadzali cele davy ludi a pozorovali blikajuce, hybajuce a hrajuce dekoracie na donekonecna omielanu temu "Merry Xmas", ale aj napriek tomu naporu neonov a plastu tu vladla strasne prijemna,pohodova, kolektivna atmosfera, dalo by sa povedat, ze az duch vianoc? Mozno, kazdopadne to bolo zaujimave...

Day 195 - 14th December, Costa Mesa - San Clemente, 34.05 miles

Konecne sa pomaly dostavame von z L.A. Cesta do San Clemente je hodne cez mesto, aj ked podtatnu cast vedie popod kopce. Vsetko okrem zahrad je vyprahnute a hnede. Celkom do toho kontrastuju zelene zahrady s kvetmi a stromami popripade s odpudivymi sterilnymi travnikmi. Do San Clemente sa dostaveme kratko po obede, caka nas mensi vystup do kopcov, ale dnesny noclah stoji za to. Nasi dnesny hostitelia su z vyrazne bohatsej vrstvy nez ti predtym, napriek tomu sa vsak spravaju uplne prirodzene a su strasne mili. , Po tom co sa ubytujeme sa ponukneme, ze pojdeme vyvencit ich psa, vecer sa totiz chystal maly hudobny recital ich deti a deti ich priatelov a aj ich priatelov a s tym spojeny vecierok. Samozrejme sme boli pozvany aj my. Postretavali sme sa tu s kopu zaujimavych ludi, ako obvykle, vsetci boli uneseni z nasej cesty a hrozili sa z predstavy ze mierime do Mexika. Okrem menej, ci viac profesionalnej hudobnej produkcie (Baska tiez prispela a zahrala niekolko tradicnych, skor ceskych nez slovenskych, skladieb :-) sme si vypoculi kopec strasidelnych historiek z Mexika, hlavne od ludi co tam nikdy neboli... Vecer sme zakoncili kupanim sa vo vyrivke, zatial co z nedalekej vojenskej zakladne doliehali tlmene zvuky explozii :-)

Day 194 - 13th December, Long Beach - Costa Mesa, 20 miles

Dnes sme mali naplanovanu len kratku etapu, po prebdenej noci (Hobita davali az o polnoci) sa to celkom hodilo. Rozlucili sme sa s Jennefer a pokracovali do Costa Mesa po pobrezi, dnes bola navigacia omnoho lahsia. Prechadzali sme velikanske pieskove plaze, teraz tu ludia hlavne vencili psi alebo hrali volejbal. Studena vlna uz pominula a opat tu uz bolo klasicke pocasie pre juh Kalifornie, to jest slnecno a teplo cca 25ºC. Do Costa Mesa sme dorazili prekvapivo este za svetla. Jamie, u ktorej sme dnes prespavali nam poslala kod od ich brany, este bola v praci, ale ze sa mame zariadit ako doma. Sranda, neviem ci u nas doma by ste len tak dali niekomu, koho ste nikdy nevideli, kluce od svojho domu.

Day 193 - 12th December, Beverly Hills - Long Beach, 41.39 miles

Prechod cez L.A. sme si naplanovali tak, ze sme prechadzali od warmshowerakov ku warmshowerakom. Nas dalsi hostitel bol na Long Beach. Takze dnes sme prechadzali cely den mestom. Skombinovali sme niekolko cyklociest, jedna veduca popri vybetonovanych kanaloch Ballona Creeku, potom po pobrezi cez plaze a potom vsakovako krizom krazom cez mesto, zabrusili sme aj do pomerne pochybnych stvrti s prevahou hispanskej populacie, ale bolo to uplne v pohode, dokonca aj hnusna industrialna cast okolo pristavu bola iba hnusna, ale rozhodne nie nejako zvlast nebezpecna. Ale to kluckovanie po uliciach a statie na semaforoch nas hodne spomalilo, na Long Beach sme opat dorazili za tmy, ale Jennifer aj tak este nebola doma, este mala prednasky. Tak sme si kupili tostady a smotanu na zakusnutie a pozorovali hviezdnu oblohu na plazi (resp. svetla mesta odrazajuce sa na hladine oceanu). Vecer sme isli s Jennifer a jej priatelom do kina na premieru dalsieho pokracovania Hobita. Sranda, normalne sme mu rozumeli aj bez titulkov...

Day 192 - 11th December, Point Mugu SP - Malibu - Beverly Hills, 47.92 miles

Dostavame sa do L.A. Po tom co sa dostaneme do Malibu, uz sme definitivne v meste. Baska na Malibu Beach uz nevydrzi len sa pozerat na modry ocean a odvazne sa vrha do vln, aj ked iba na chvilku, voda je studena, toto je pre Pacifik typicke, voda v nom je stale studena. Premavka je stale vacsia a ohlusujucejsia, nastastie pred Santa Monicou uz ideme po cykloceste, po ceste by sa cez vsetky tie zapchy aj tak nedalo. Smerujeme do Beverly Hills, kde nas caka dalsi warmshowers. Plaz prechadza do hasisackej stvrte s haluzackymi obchodikmi a hromadou pseudohippikov povalujucich sa pod palmami, alebo provozujucich nejaku formu "umenia". Jazda do Beverly Hills je mierne sialena, ale na cestach su pruhy pre cyklistov tak to ide celkom dobre, dokonca po nas ani nikto nestrielal ani sa nas nesnazil ozbijat :-), dokonca sme ani ziadnych gangstrov nezahliadli a to sme kus cesty isli bocnymi ulickami a k tomu v noci, ale asi sme boli v prilis dobrej stvrti... Nasi warmshoweristi nas uvitali s otvorenou narucou. Byvali v paradnom domceku, velmi pekne zariadenom a hned nam ukazali izbu kde mozeme prespat, povedali, ze ak sme hladni mame si nieco zobrat z chladnicky a potom nas tu nechali samych, odisli na nejake nakupy. Spolu s nami tu bol jeden chalan z Brazilie, je na ceste do Australie a tu akurat caka na viza.

Day 191 - 10th December, Carpinteria - Ventura - Point Mugu State Park, 47.05 miles

Za Carpinteriou slapeme po dialnici, nastastie je tu vyhradeny cely pruh pre cyklistov, takze az na hluk je to v pohode, potom ideme po starej dialnici, zmenenej teraz na nieco ako kemp pre surferov, aj ked za to ze si tu mozete zaparkovat svoje RV na kraji cesty sa plati okolo 40$. Mestecko Ventura je klasicke letovisko - palmy, plaze, plachetnice, akurat ze teraz v "zime" je tu mrtvo, akurat v mori je kopec surferov, zima to je cas velkych vln, cas pre surfovanie, akurat rozmyslam ako to riesili v minulosti, ked este nemali neopreny, bo voda je dost ladova. Prechadzame cez Oxnard, vojenske mestecko, nachadza sa tu obrovitanska vojenska zakladna, obohnana bytelnym plotom a murom, zombici by nemali sancu. Za Oxnardom nas caka sok, ty blazni tu, prakticky uz v pusti, pestuju travnik, obrovske polia so zelenym anglickym travnikom. Obchadzame dalsiu vojensku zakladnu s vystavkou vsetkych smrtonotnych zbrani zem - vzduch a vzduch - vzduch :-) Dostavame sa k vyprahlim kopcom Santa Monici, mierne zaciernene nedavnym poziarom. Spime vo vyhoretom kempe na Point Mugu State Park. Aj napriek poziaru je tu tecuca voda, aj ked nechapem ze odkial, tu uz je fakt pust.

Day 190 - 9th December, Gaviota SP - Santa Barbara - Carpinteria, 49.37 miles

Zmrzle rano, ale po chvili na slnku je uz celkom fajn. Tahame po hlucnej autostrade. Na obzore vidno hory na ostrove Santa Cruz a pred nimi v oceane ropne plosiny, je ich tu celkom dost. Po lavici su celkom pekne kopce, po pravici zeleznica (jedna z mala trati, na ktorej este funguju osobne vlaky), potom utes a modry ocean, obcas nejaky delfin :-) V mestecku Goleta je eukalyptovy lesik, v ktorom zimuje cast populacie monarchov zijucich na zapadnej strane Skalnatych hor. Dali sme si tu obed, zatial co nas obletovali monarchovia. Bezvisledne hladame nejakych warmshowers hostitelov. Na pumpe, ked tankujeme dalsi benzin pre varic sa pri nas zastavi nejaky vysluzili cestovatel s modrou tlamou, od modreho lizatka, ospevoval nam juznu ameriku a vystrihal nas pred strednou, ze vraj je tam velmi, velmi nebezpecno... V Santa Barbare kupujeme pre Baskyn bicykel stojan, ten "novy" uz nie je velmi funkcny. Prichadzame na plaz v Santa Barbare, az na tu kosu (a absenciu bab v bikinach) to tu vizera skoro ako z Baywatchu. Kedze je uz vecer nezdrzujeme sa tu, musime sa dostat do mesta Carpinteria, kde je jediny statny kemp v okoli. Je to ale este kus cesty, takze zase slapeme dlho do noci. Tie kratke dni su naozaj otrava...

Day 189 - 8th December, Guadalupe - Lompoc - Gaviota State Park, 53.45 miles

Doobeda sa este rozpravame s Anne, ukazuje nam svojich predchadzajucich hostov-cyklistov a inych putnikov putujucich po svete a ukazala nam stranku helpx.net, co je stranka o dobrovolnictve v roznych krajinach sveta, ci uz na farmach alebo v roznych komunitach a mimovladnych organizaciach. Taktiez nam Anne porozpravala kopec povzbudzujucich informacii o Mexiku, takze sme od nej odchadzali velmi pozitivne naladeni. Bol slnecny aj ked chladny den, presli sme cez polnohospodarsku krajinu okolo Guadalupe (na ktorom je vraj famozny cintorin s japonskymi, norskymi a este neviem akymi hrobmi), velmi okrajovo minuli mestecko Santa Maria. Zacalo mi akosi plavat zadne koleso, zistil som, ze mam zlomenu jednu spajlu. Vymena trvala asi 15 minut, nova spajla bola trochu krivolaka z toho ako som ju tam rval, ale koleso prestalo plavat a aj sa mi ho podarilo celkom pekne vycentrovat. Na radu Anne sme nesli do Lompocu po jednotke, ale "skratkou" cez kopce po vedlajsej ceste. Dobre bolo, ze to bola vyrazne kratsia cesta a s malou premavkou, nevyhoda bola, ze sme museli zdolat brutalny kopec. Zato vsak do Lompocu sme zbehli pekne z kopca. V Lompocu bola strasna kosa, kupili sme si nieco pod zub, ale ani sme toho moc nezjedli, bola prilis zima, lepsie bolo slapat, navyse sa uz blizil vecer. Dufali sme, ze k pobreziu uz to bude iba cez zopar kopcekov. Nebolo. Pomaly padla tma a my sme stale este slapali do kopca, po oceane ani chyru. Navyse ani zakempovat sa moc nedalo, nemali sme dost vody a vsade naokolo bol ostnaty drot. Takze nas cakala dalsia mraziva jazda vo svetle celoviek. Aspon ze to uz bolo hlavne z kopca, aj ked kusok po jednotke, co bola zrazu hnusne frekventovana dialnica, s ohlusujucim revom aut. Prespali sme v Gaviota State Park, aj ked bol zavrety. V noci mrzlo, z rana sme mali stan celkom slusne omrznuty.

Day 188 - 7th December, Los Osos - Pismo - Guadalupe, 43.10 miles

V noci lialo, prvy dazd od Leggettu, ale rano uz bolo pekne, aj ked celkom chladno. Rozlucili sme sa s Georgom a Pat a pokracovali na juh. Na jednotku sa vraciame po Los Osos Valley Road. Udolie Los Osos je celkom pekne, daleke vyhlady, nie uplne giganticke polia, po oblohe kruzia mysiaci. Okrajovo skrabneme San Luis Obispo, neschadzame na jednotku, pretoze tu ide paralelna cesta, po ktorej nas vedie cyklotrasa. Prechadzame cez mensi horsky hreben a opat sme pri oceane na pobrezi. Prechadzame okrajom Oceana a pri stupani do dalsieho mesta Callender, Baska dostala defekt, opravujeme ho na kraji cesty v tieni eukalyptov, invaznej to dreviny dovlecenej z australie, aby, po tom co tu zliklidovali cedrove lesy, mali nejake stromy schopne rast v tomto suchopare. Akurat si ako obvykle miestny nedali dve a dve dohromady a teraz vdaka eukalyptom tu maju brutalne poziare, kedze kora, ktora sa odlupuje z tychto stromov sluzi ako idealne palivo, nehovoriac o samotnych stromoch plnych eukalyptoveho oleja :-). To sme sa dozvedeli od Georga. Tiez sme sa dozvedeli o tom, ze sem introdukovali diviaky a teraz s nimi maju velke problemy, netusil som, ze aj diviak moze byt invaznym druhom. Jedneho sme videli, poriadne obrovske hovado. Akurat nechapem ako tu mozu prezit, pri tychto lovuchtivych domorodcoch, resp. ze je problem s tym, ze sa velmi rychlo mnozia a nestihaju ich strielat.
Navecer sa dostavame do Guadalupe, nachadzajuce sa uprostred poli a jahodovych plantazi. Caka nas tu Anny, dalsia warmshoweristka. So zapadom slnka teplota klesa takmer na nulu, k Anny prichadzame riadne vymrznuty. Ale Anny je uzasnou hostitelkou, hned nas posiela dat si horuci kupel a zatial pripravila vybornu veceru. Pri veceri sme sa rozpravali o vsetkom moznom, Anny precestovala cely svet ako aktivistka pomahala ludom v Azii, Afrike, Amerike, navstivila asi vsetky krajiny co ich na zemeguli mame a hlavne mala uzasne nazory na zivot a to co je hodnotne, az sme sa divili, ze niekto takyto moze zit v USA :-)

It was raining in the night, first rain after Leggett. Good timing, because in the morning was clear and we could continuing without problems.

Day 187 - 6th December, San Simeon - Morro Bay - Los Osos, 32.34 miles

Po tom co prejdeme cez mestecko Cambria a zdolame mensi kopec, dostavame sa do vyprahlej, skoro puste, čo sú pastviný rancerii, ktore sa tiahnu od obzoru po obzor. Nastastie ficime s dobrym vetrom a mierne z kopca, takze tym suchoparom prechadzame pomerne rychlo. Pred dalsim mesteckom Cayucos odbocujeme k oceanu a v malej zatocinke si davame obed, spolu s belusami. Na obzore sa z vody vypina obrovitanska skala a fabrika na vyrobu vody v Morro Bay. Prejdeme cez Morro Bay, cez park, kde sa na stromoch uz zhromazdili supy na nocovisko. Ani sme nevedeli, ze takto nocuju pohromade. My sme prenocovali v Los Osos u Georga a Pat, dalsich warmshoweristoch. Skveli ludkovia. George bol skautsky veduci.

After we passed through small town named Cambia, the road led us away from the coast, between hills covered with dry grass. All around us was land changed to the pastures. It was very hot here but luckily we got good tailwind. And because it was small downhill, very soon we came back to the ocean shore and left that sad piece of land behind us. In front of Cayucos was nice view on entire Morro Bay, with two dominant - huge monolithic rock in the shape of pyramid standing in the water and some ugly  factory (probably for making the drinking water). In Morro Bay we saw for the first time huge roosting site with turkey vultures. In the late evening our last miles led us to Los Osos, where we stayed with George and Pat, two amazing people, warmshowers hosts of course. Pat prepared an amazing dinner and we had interesting conversation. George told us about eucalypts and why they were introduced to this region of USA (because after they destroyed local forests, people were looking for some trees able to grow in this conditions, so they chose eucalypt, now they are spreading everywhere and are the most often reason of the wild fires), we also found out that here in this region they have big problem with wild hogs, also non native. Actually we saw one on the way here.

Day 186 - 5th December, Kirk Creek - Elephant Seal Rookery - San Simeon State Park, 43.23 miles

Den morskych vydier. Nasli sme ich kusok za Kirk Creekom. Naraz som mal pocit, ze musime zastavit, tak sme zastavili a ja som zacal dalekohladom prehladavat more chaluh pod nami. A naozaj po chvili sme ich nasli, bolo ich asi devet, vyvalovali sa na vlnach, chvilami sa hrali alebo omotane/zakotvene v chaluhach spali. Pozorovali sme ich asi hodinu. Zvysok dna sa klukatime po utesoch, chvilu sme riesili problem s vodou, ale nakoniec sme ju dostali v jednej z restauracii co tu su. Aj ked skoro nam ju nedali, ze vraj len pre zakaznikov... Navecer uz opustame povestne utesy Big Sur-u, po paradnom zjazde sa dostavame na roviny, lietaju tu duchovia, miestny druh kani, cele biele a sede a s uhrancivym pohladom. Prichadzame do Elephant Seal Rookery (neviem najst slovensky nazov), obrovske samce sa tu navzajom plieskaju tlamami a vydavaju rucivo-trubive zvuky. Zaroven su strasne vtipní Prespavame v San Simeon State Park.

Today we hit the road quite early in the morning. It was nearly freezing in the shade, but on the sun the temperature was pleasant. We were in the area with Sea Otters, but we still haven't seen any. Looking on the kelp (or seaweed?) "fields", suddenly I had feeling that here we have to find some of them. So we stopped and really after a while I found small group of nine. They were playing, chasing each other or sleeping on the water wrapped in the kelps. After one hour suddenly they disappeared, so we continued on the windy road with the cliffs beneath. We nearly run off the drinking water (the day was very hot finally), but soon enough there was a restaurant and we could refill our bottles. Well, we nearly didn't get any, because the water was only for customers. An another sign that we are entering the desert. Today we left Big Sur, the long and amazing downhill ride was nice farewell with this gorgeous area. In the evening we passed near by Elephant Seals Rookery, that was also interesting experience to see all those huge males. For the night we stayed in San Simeon State Park.

Day 185 - 4th December, Andrew Molera SP - Big Sur - Kirk Creek, 34.45 miles

Rano opustame kemp relativne skoro, teda vzhladom na vcerajsi experiment s Krakenom. Prechadzame cez Big Sur, od A. Molera SP cesta vedie hlbokym udolim, v ktorom sa akymsi zazrakom zachoval kus pekneho cedroveho lesa. Cesta pomaly, ale iste stupa, nakoniec kym vylezieme na vrchol mame za sebou skoro hodinu slapania do kopca. Otvara sa vyhlad na pobrezie s jeho fantastickymi skalami a utesov. Opat sa klukatime po utesoch, za kazdou zatackou sa otvara nejaky novy paradny vyhlad. Vysoke hory padaju rovno do oceanu a na ich ramenach sa klukatime po zvysok dna. Prechadzame cez Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park so zatokou ako z filmu Modra laguna... Prechadzame cez dalsie rokliny, strze, uzasne hlboke, preklenute "historickymi" mostami. Slapeme dlho do noci, nie je tu kde prespat, brania nam v tom bud utesy alebo ostnate ploty. Ked konecne prichadzame do State Parku, posielaju nas prec, lebo tam nie je hiker/biker miesto, ze vraj o dve mile dalej je kemp, ktory je aj pre bajkerov. Nastastie su to naozaj len dve mile. Je hviezdnata noc, mesiac uz pomaly zapadol do oceanu a je riadna kosa, skoro mrzne. Spolu s nami tu mrzne este iny par cyklistov, idu do San Francisca a nemaju moc vybavenie na taky chlad, je to tu trochu neobvykle. Este je tu jeden chodec, tazko povedat ci to je bezdomovec alebo nejaky dalsi sialenec ako my, na cestach po svete. Ma taky "offroadovy" vozik.

After tasteless breakfast (Kraken rum no more! :-)) we left A. Molera SP.  While we were preparing our bikes, in front of the campground, one old guy on motorcycle stopped for a chat. He also did this part of the coast on bicycle and gave us some useful informations about hiker/biker campground between L.A. and San Diego (because there are only two of them). He was now on the way to L.A. to sell his motorcycle. In Big Sur village we had small refreshment, ice cream, even it was very cold. Then the road through State Park, full of beautiful redwoods, went  steadily uphill. Very soon it was pretty steep hill. It took nearly one hour to get on the top, but it was worthy. Amazing views of the coast, ocean and hills above, but what was the best was a long ride downhill with cliffs and beautiful coves on our right side. Especially Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park was gorgeous with small cove and waterfall (I don't know where the water came from, because everything around here is dry). We also went through another bridges overarching through deep ravines or gorges. Still on the coast, basically glued to the cliffs, there wasn't any good place to camp so we had to bike quite long after sunset. When we finally arrived (after nice downhill with tunnel and some construction work on the road) to some State Park (under hwy's bridge), they told is that they don't have hiker/biker sites, so we had to continue to the next one (or we could pay 35$). What was nice, was that we could get drinking water here, because the next State Park is without water. Luckily it was only two miles. So we finally sleepy in the Kirk Creek State Park. Night was very cold, nearly freezing, for is it wasn't big problem, but there were an another bikers, on their trip to San Fran and they haven't been prepared for this cold weather. Down here it's not very common.

Day 184 - 3rd December, Monterey - Carmel - Point Sur - Andrew Molera State Park, 40.56 miles

Bajker s long bajkom, nam rano poradil aby sme si isli popri pobrezi na 17 Mile Drive, ze je to velmi pekne. Po ceste k pobreziu, chceme "natankovat", uz nam dosiel benzin do varica, ale na pumpe aj ked je otvorena, nik nie je. Kym hladame obsluhu (pretoze tu sa najprv plati az potom tankuje), pride k nam akysi chlapik a da nam 10$ a zduchne skor nez stihneme podakovat. 17 Mile Drive je naozaj pekna cesta, vedie po pobrezi s krasnymi skalami a utesmi, je tu aj jedno "tulenie" bralo s paradnou koloniou tulenov (a paradnym puchom sa od nich valiacim, dost fukalo v zlom smere :-)). Na krase tejto cesty neubralo ani to ze viedla cez golfove ihrisko. Bolo vsak celkom citlivo spravene, takze celkom zapadalo do scenerie. Bol tu aj maly lesik s endemických druhom cedra (uz si presne nepamatam presne akym). Za tymto lesikom sa nachadzaju nabliskane palace tej bohatsej vrstvy USAncanov, vacsinou repliky, klasickych stavieb z Europy. Opustame Monterey a prechadzame cez Carmel, snobska kolonia bohacov ako vysita, ale maju tu postu a tak posielame domov balik so "zbytocnymi" vecami. Konecne sa nam trocha nase tasky odlahcili, aj ked to stalo okolo 60$. Za Carmelom uz zaciname ukusovat z Big Sur-u, dalsiemu legendarnemu kusku zapadneho pobrezia. Kopce tu uz su uplne bez stromov, cedre uz v davnych dobach padli za obed rozsirujucej sa pastve a rancom, teraz kopce pokryvali len zakrsle kriaky a sucha trava, do toho je kade tade vidno rozbite svahy eroziou. Cesta sa postupne zacina stverat do kopcov, lemovana po pravej strane strmymi utesmi. Zaciname prekonavat hlboke rokliny po prvych mostoch, pobrezie je lemovane fantastickymi rozorvanymi bralami a skalami, okolo ktorych sa vlnia tesne pod hladinou lesy chaluh, najproduktivnejsieho to ekosystemu na zemi. Zdviha sa poriadny vietor, nastastie busi do nasich chrbtov, obcas ani nemusime slapat do kopca, problem je akurat v zakrutach, ked poryvy vetru do nas udieraju z boku. Na uzkej ceste a so strmym utesom po pravici to nebolo velmi prijemne. Nakoniec sa cesta, klukatiaca sa po utesoch, vyrovnala trocha sa vzdialila od oceanu a prechadzala pastvinami s dobytkom. Bol dalsi z krasnych zapadov slnka s krvavo cervenymi oblakmi. Noclah sme nasli v kempe Andrew Molera State Parku. Okrem nas tu nikto nebol a vo "food" boxoch sme nasli celkom slusnu zasobu jedla, piva a skoro plnej flase Krakena, pomerne lacneho rumu. Takze vecer nam bolo celkom veselo...

That guy on long bike recommended us to follow the coast on 17 Mile Drive, which showed up to be a good choice. On the gas station (we had to refill gasoline bottle for our cooking stove), somebody just gave us 10$ to sponsor our journey, I guess :-) 17 Mile Drive was really beautiful, with very nice coast (rocks, cliffs), even it let through golf courses. We saw many seals/sea lions and a lot of birds, passed through small forest with some kind of ceder, which groves only here. There are also huge (fake) houses, probably some very rich people tried to built them as replicas of the old European houses, but everything is just wood and plasterboard. Even worst it is in Carmel, which we renamed to Justforrichpeopleland. We stopped there for while in post office to send home some useless stuff. And then we were finally on the Hwy 1 and with Big Sur in front of us. The hills on our left side are without any trees, redwoods were cut down a long time ago, pastures for cows were probably more important. Nowadays we didn't see any cattle there, pastures were covered with shrubs and slopes broken by erosion. The coast hwy slowly went uphill, but this time the wind helped us a lot, it was so strong that we nearly didn't have to pedal. We crossed the first from many Big Sur's bridges, some of them overarching pretty deep gorges, with beautiful cliffs and ocean on our right side it was gorgeous :-) With strong wind in our backs we were nearly flying, the only problems were curves where tailwind changed to sidewind and then we had to fight for balance and not falling down 600 feet to the ocean. Finally after we crossed the cliffs, the road went more inland and nicely level and with pastures (this time also with cattle) around us. This day slowly ended and after amazing sunset in last rays of light we arrived to Andrew Molera State Park. We found here nice and completely empty campground, perfect for us. What was even better in food boxes we found some candies, beers and nearly full bottle of Kraken rum, so we could celebrate Barbora's nameday :-)

Day 183 - 2nd December, Marina - Monterey, 15.05 miles

Noc sme preckali pred mesteckom Marina na uzemi nikoho, vzacnom to kusku tu v USA, ktory nebol za ostnatym drotom. Od Mariny nas vedie do Monterey pekna cyklocesta, popri byvalej vojenskej zakladni, teraz to nadherny State Park s paradnymi dunami a pestrofarebnym kobercom sukulentov. Na predmesti Monterey kupujeme elektronicku citacku knih - Nook, takze len co sa nam ju podari nabit mozeme si citat do aleluje. V Monterey sme sa vysplhali na strasny kopec, kde sa nachadza Veterans Memory Park, kde je kemp s hiker/biker miestami. Je to jediny kemp siroko daleko, takze tu ostavame na noc. Je to tu trocha bezdomovecke, ale bezdomovci v USA su civilizovany, takze je to v pohode. Pecieme si placky, bavime sa s chlapikom, bajkerom co ma "long" bajk (nieco ako normalny bicykel, ale zadny nosic je vyrazne predlzeny takze nan moze mat velke tasky).

From Marina we went to Monterey on very nice bike trail, right next to the former military base, now State Park with amazing sand dunes. Before Monterey we bought ebook reader (Nook), so finally, now we can read every night for weeks :-) Today we stay in Monterey in Veterans Memory Park where is also small campground which also have hiker/biker site. To get there wasn't very easy, campground is on the top of steep hill. Campground is fine but a little homeless-ish, but USA's homeless are quite civilized, so it was ok. Together with us there was another biker, on long bike. Today we tried to make flat bread, quite successfully.

Day 182 - 1st December, Santa Cruz - Marina, 40.76 miles

Dnes pre zmenu vyrazame do krasneho pocasia. Na vlnach sa prehana kopec surferov. Pri plazi sa snazime najst kde maju nase karimatky diery, uz vydrzia nafuknute sotva dve-tri hodiny. Na mojej karimatke sme nic nenasli, zato pri Baskinej karimatke, ked som uz zalepil asi dvadsiatu dieru, uz som toho nechal. Zatial co sme hladali/lepili zisiel sa tu miestny ukulele klub, asi dvadsat ludi, a zacali hrat vsetky mozne pesnicky od Beatles alebo Oldies. Zaroven vyberali peniaze na pomoc pre ludi na Filipinach. Baska tiez svojou troskou prispela a pridala sa k nim na flaute. Potom co sme skoncili s karimatkami a nakupili nejaky proviant, opustili sme Santa Cruz. Na krizovatke pred nami stalo auto, z ktoreho sa mohutne dymilo, vo vnutry sedela babicka a poctivo tahala z paradnej "hasisackej" fajky, na to ako musela byt pod "vplyvom" soferovala celkom dobre, ale aj tak som rad za tie siroke krajnice co tu maju...
Za Santa Cruz sme prechadzali cez nekonecne jahodove plantaze. Miestami bol vzduch presyteny vonou jahod. Tak odtialto sa beru vsetky tie jahodove dzemy, zmrzliny a pod....

For today we have brilliant sunny and warm weather. The ocean is full of surfers. Close to the beach, in downtown, local ukulele club plays oldies and collects money for shelter in Philippines. Baška also joined them, but with the recorder. While they were playing, I tried to fix as many holes in our sleeping pads as possible, but after tenth hole I just gave up. These inflatable sleeping pads are nice and comfortable, but definitely not suitable for long trips and definitely not for sleeping in the desert :-) On our way through Santa Cruz, when we were approaching to one interception, there was one car waiting on the red lights and with clouds of smoke getting out of it. Judging by the smell it wasn't burning engine, this smoke had typically "funky" scent. I expected that bunch of local teenagers had competition in the grass smoking , what was our surprise, when we saw small, old lady sitting alone in that car, with small, glass pipe in her hand. Her ability to drive a car didn't seem to be affected :-) After Santa Cruz we nearly got lost between huge farm fields with strawberries. They were everywhere, on the grounds, in the air (only not in ours mouths). Today somehow disappeared very quickly, after we had late lunch on some State Beach close to the big and ugly factory, suddenly came the evening, so we put our tent on the nobody's land near the town of Marina.

Day 181 - 30th November, Half Moon Bay - Pomponio State Beach - Santa Cruz, 51 miles

Rano v hmle, pokracujeme po pobrezi, cesta sa klukati ako husenkova draha. Obedujeme oproti malemu ostrovu doslova pokrytemu kormoranmi a pelikanmi. Celkom fuci a je chladno. Okolo obeda sa hmla straca a konecne ideme v slnecnom dni. Cesta vybieha na utesy, ocean huci niekde pod nami. Vidime delfiny nahanaju sa vo vlnach. Za chvilu aj tulene a o kus dalej sa cele krdle pelikanov vrhaju do vln a lovia ryby. Stojime na hrane utesu a v urovni nasich oci prelietavaju krdle pelikanov. Navecer prichadzame do Santa Cruz, kochame sa nadhernym zapadom slnka na "Natural Bridges State Beach" vyzera to ze sem prislo skoro cele mesto pozriet si ho. Uz po tme prichadzame k nasim warmshowers hostitelom Chrisovi a Paule. Stravili sme s nimi vecer plny zaujimavej konverzacie s vybornou vecerou a vinom. Dozvedeli sme sa, ze akurat tiahnu ancovicky, preto bolo na mori tak rusno.

Morning in the fog. We followed the coast, the road went up and down like on the roller-coaster. For lunch we stopped at Pomponio State Beach, right to opposite of the small island full of cormorans and pelicans. In the afternoon the fog disappeared, finally it isn't cold and wet. From the nice part of the road, which was on the high cliff, we saw dolphins chasing each other in the waves and flocks of pelicans flying right next to us. A lot of them were also hunting on the ocean, together with seals. In the evening we arrived to Santa Cruz. From the coast of Natural Bridges State Beach was an amazing view on the beautiful, red sunset. In Santa Cruz we stayed with Chris and Paula, our warmshowers hosts. We had amazing dinner and good conversation. They told us that now is time when anchovies migrate, so that is why it was so busy on the ocean.

Day 180 - 29th November, San Francisco - Dali City - Pacifica - Half Moon Bay, 31.39 miles

Ráno sme sa rozlúčili s Jacobom a cez Haight-Ashbury (miestom presláveným bítnikmi a hippies) prešli opäť do Golden Gate Parku. Hippíkov sme žiadnych nevideli, zato pri parku sa vyvaľovala celá tlupa bezdomovcov. Prešli sme na pobrežie a začali sa štverať do Daly City. Z nejakého dôvodu ho postavili na pieskovom útese, akurát sa im teraz trochu sunie do mora. Nechápem prečo tam vôbec niekto chce žiť, keď sme tam dorazili, priplazila sa od oceánu hustá hmla a krásny slnečný deň bol razom studeným, sychravým zimným dňom, a hmlu tu vraj majú skoro stále, Jacob hovoril, že sme mali celkom šťastie, že sme videli slnečné San Francisco. Takže v studenej, mokrej hmle sme hľadali nejaké wifi, aby sme mohli dať o sebe vedieť naším ďalším hostiteľom v Santa Cruz. Rozhodli sme sa už konečne začať využívať naplno warmshowers.org. Ako tak sme postávali na ulici, náhodou pred budhisticko-altruistickým centrom, zastavilo pri nás auto a tetuška-budhista-altruista sa nás spýtala, že čo potrebujeme. Na naše prekvapenie vytiahla z kabelky niečo ako router a zrazu sme sa mohli pripojiť na internet. Poslali sme teda email naším hostiteľom, rozlúčili sa s tetuškou a začali zdolávať kopec do Half Moon Bay. Tento úsek bol asi najnebezpečnejší z celej našej cesty. Úzka cesta sa kľukatila do strmého kopca, žiadna krajnica, hmla, mokro, vietor a šialená premávka navyše tu šoféri ani v hmle svetlá moc nepoužívajú . Za kopcom nás čakal parádny tunel + zjazd z kopca a ďalšia úzka cesta. Ale akosi sme to prežili bez ujmy na telesnej schránke, aj keď sme mali zopár veľmi tesných stretnutí s prebiehajúcimi autami. Do Half Moon Bay State Park sme však už prišli po peknej cykloceste, cesta bola aj tak upchatá autami, všetci sa už vracali domov z práce. Prespali sme v kempe, okrem nás tu bol ešte ďalší pár na bicykloch.

In the morning we left Jacobs's house and went to the Golden Gate park again, but this time thought Haight-Ashbury. There was some kind of hippies atmosphere but mostly we saw only hipsters or homeless and a lot of people in front of shops, it was Black Friday. After we got to the coast we turn our backs to the San Francisco, headed south again. In the Daly city we found out what is this famous San Francisco's fog about. Why somebody would like to live in this wet and cold white milk, I don't understand :-). Biking in the fog we were looking for some internet. We got access to wifi in front of buddhist centre, thank to one woman which works there. We needed to contract next warmshowers host in Santa Cruz. After this was successfully done, we had to get to the Half Moon Bay. Between Daly City and Half Moon Bay is only one big hill, but the road there is probably the worst part on the entire Coast Highway. Bike Path ended in front of narrow, windy road without any shoulder and pretty steep hill. It was quite problem to get on the road because of very high traffic (it was already afternoon and people were returning to their homes). After we got on the top of the hill, strong wind hit us (but luckily no car, yet), still in the fog and cold it was really tough. But finally we got on the other side of the hill and in front off Half Moon Bay we also left that crazy traffic behind us, partly thanks to the traffic jam (it was satisfying to be faster than cars) and also because of nice bike trail which led us to the Half Moon Bay State Park Campground. We camped there, white void still around us, later came to the hiker/biker site another couple of bikers, we met them first time in the Daly City, so they also survived that deadly hill.

Day 179 - 28th November, Thanksgiving in San Francisco & Oakland

Deň Vďakyvzdania, Jacob nás pozval k jeho bratovi na „Orphan Thanksgiving" (niečo ako deň vďakyvzdania pre siroty), kde sa stretneme s ich priateľmi, ktorí tiež nemohli byť počas tohoto dňa so svojimi rodinami. Takže doobeda sme pripravili nejaké malé občerstvenie, aby sme aj my niečím prispeli (yogees :-)) a poobede nás už Jacobovo autíčko poháňané použitým, starým rastlinným olejom z reštaurácii (dá sa kúpiť cez internet a je výrazne lacnejší než nafta) odviezlo do Oaklandu k jeho bratovi. Slávnostná večera bola extra bohatá, keďže sa tu zišlo asi 10 ľudí a každý prišiel s niečim extra dobrým a zaručene organicky pestovaným či Fairtrade. Spoznali sme tu kopec zaujímavých ľudí a nakoniec si užili kúpanie vo výrivke pod hviezdnym nebom.

Today we spent with Jacob and his and his brother's friends. Together we had "the orphans" Thanksgiving. Everybody brought something, so we had so much excellent food, that it nearly killed us (after so many days on the road, cooking just beans or pasta...). We also contribute with "yogees" (spread from yoghurt, garlic and cheese - Baška's family recipe). So, we met a lot of cool people and in the evening we enjoyed the hot tube under the stars (which was very unusual for us in this time of year :-)).

Day 178 - 27th November, San Francisco, 28.63 miles

Prvý deň v San Franciscu. Najprv sme zablúdili do turistických pascí pri prístave, každé mólo tu ponúkalo nejakú inú silikónovú atrakciu a hordy zombáckych turistov. Horko-ťažko sa nám podarilo nájsť internet (Starbucks má vždy free wifi) a warmshowers hostiteľa, ale mohli sme k nej prísť až večer. Ono bol zázrak, že sme vôbec niekoho našli, deň pred vďakyvzdaním. Takže sme prešli popod gigantickú pyramídu patriacu nejakej banke, do čínskej štvrte, ktorá vyzerala celkom čínsky, naďabili sme náhodou na beatnické múzeum a prešli si Kerouacovou uličkou, zavítali do gréckej štvrte a potom prepletajúc sa rôznymi uličkami zavítali sme do Golden Gate parku, čo je obrovský nádherný park. Už sa stmievalo a tak sme ho len tak zbežne prešli, okrem botanickej a japonskej záhrady tu mali aj výbeh s bizónmi. Nemysleli sme si, že ich ešte uvidíme. Potom nás čakala cesta nocou, naprieč celým San Franciscom. Je to však “bajk friendly“ mesto a tak sme napredovali celkom rýchlo po cyklocestách, okolo nás sa preháňali ďalší, domáci, cyklisti. Problém trochu nastal, keď cyklocesta začala viesť po cestách cez ulice. Ako sme si to tak hnali nočným Friscom, zrazu nás niekto zdravý z chodníka. A čuduj sa svete bol to jeden chalan z tej americkej skupiny cyklistov, ktorým Baška mierne vyjedla zásoby, volal sa Jacob a po chvíli rozhovoru nás pozval k sebe domov, že môžeme prespať uňho, býva len zopár blokov od miesta kde sme boli. No dvakrát sme sa nerozmýšľali. Už na bajkoch vyzerali ako super ľudia, napokon boli rovnakého zmýšľania ako my a nemuseli sme sa trepať cez pol mesta. Našej pôvodnej hostiteľke tiež odľahlo, keď sme jej zavolali, už mala totiž nejakých hostí u seba, ale nechcela nás nechať v štichu. Jacob sa ukázal ako super hostiteľ, jeho dve spolubývajúce boli tiež príjemné osoby. Takže napokon sme prišli k streche nad hlavou ani sme nevedeli ako:-). Aká je šanca, že v meste o rozmeroch San Francisca stretnete na ulici jediného človeka, ktorého tu poznáte? A aj to len preto, že ste ho náhodou stretli pred pár dňami na ceste (zvyšok skupiny bol L.A.)? Nech mi niekto rozpráva, že zázraky neexistujú...

Today we finally entered San Francisco. First we went to the Piers, which was a really bad idea. That place was a nasty, crowded tourist trap. At least, we found some Starbuck with fee wifi and after long searching we found one warmshowers host which could host us for tonight. It was really hard to find someone, day before Thanksgiving :-), even our host had already some guests, but she was so nice  and said that we can stay. For the rest of the day, we were cycling through San Francisco, first China town, then we accidentally found Kerouac street, then went to Golden Gate park - it was really, really nice. In the evening was finally time to go to our host's house. Only problem was, that it was on the opposite site of the city. So, we were biking there (following one of many bike paths here), when somebody yelled at us from the sidewalk. And it was one guy from the group of bikers which we met on the way to San Francisco (and Baška ate half of their lunch :-), Jacob was the only one from them who lives in San Francisco. And when he found out where are we going for tonight, he told us that we can stay at his apartment, which was a couple blocks from where we were. Isn't it amazing, that there is only one person, who we know in the whole city and we "accidentally" meet him on the street, when we needed place to stay? So we called to out warmshowers host that we found somebody else (or somebody found us?) and overslept at Jacob's house.

Day 177 - 26th November, Golden Gate National Recreational Area - Bicentennial Campground, 1.52 miles

Dnes odpočívame, celý deň sme v kempe, čítame si, spíme, jeme, skrátka veget. Akurát som zbehol do blízkeho turistického centra, predĺžiť náš permit ešte o jeden deň. A koho že som tam nestretol, pracovala tam dokonalá dvojička Slávky z RPS.

The rest day, we stayed in the camp, only I went to the close visitor centre v for new permits :-) and I met there another twin of one ours friend :-)

Day 177 - 26th November, Golden Gate National Recreational Area - Bicentennial Campground, 1.52 miles

Day 176 - 25th November, Lagunitas - Corte Madera - Sausalito - Golden Gate National Rec. Area (Bicentennial Campground), 34.5 miles

Po tom co sme opustili Samuel P. Taylor State Park, v mrazivom rane, sme sa ocitli na prahu San Franciska, po zvysok dna sme sa prebojovavali cez male mestecka, hladajuc nejaky internet, aby sme si mohli najst nejakych warmshowers hostitelov v San Francisku. Nebolo to zdaleka take jednoduche, potrebovali sme ist na normalny pocitac, riesit to cez mobil bolo hodne zlozite, ale najst nejaku kniznicu tiez nebolo jednoduche. Nakoniec sme nasli jednu v Corte Madera a Baska ziskala nejake kontakty, ale nikto nebol volny, takze sme sa rozhodli ostat este pred San Franciskom v Golden Gate National Rec. Area, kde mal byt kemp zadarmo. Aj tak sme boli celkom unavany a na prechod San Franciskom sme si chceli dat chvilu pauzu. Po prichode do Sausalita sa nam otvorili prve vyhlady na San Francisko, Alcatraz a Golden Gate Bridge. Celkom pekna podivana. Nejaky casnik, ktory sa so mnou pustil do reci, zatial co Baska fotila mesto, nam daroval dva bochniky chleba. Do Bicentennial Campground sme dorazili skoro az za tmy a akurat sme tu stretli rangera. Pytal sa nas ci mame povolenie na kempovanie. To sme samozrejme nemali, blizke navstevnicke centrum, kde sa toto povolenie dalo vybavit, zavreli pred hodinou. Uz sme si zacinali mysliet, ze je to v kybli, ale ranger vytiahol vysielacku, velmi dolezito si vypytal nase doklady, nieco nadiktoval do vysielacky, vypisal trojmo nejake papiere a potom nam povedal, ze je to ok, mozeme tu prespat a dal nam vypisane povolenie, uz som bol uplne zblbnuty a chcel vytahovat peniaze, ocakavajuc nejaku horibilnu sumu za noclah, ale ono to bolo fakt zadarmo. Akurat to muselo byt nalezite prehnane byrokraciou, tak typickou pre USA. Takze sme nakoniec zaspavali s vyhladom na nocne San Francisko. Pred spanim sme si este vybehli na blizky kopec s byvalou delostreleckou bateriou, pokochat sa vyhladom (cela tato rekreacna oblast je byvala vojenska pevnost).

Today we left early in the morning and said goodbye to the other guys. It was pretty cold, nearly freezing. After we left redwoods, the rest of road led through towns and settlement around San Francisco. Our task for today was to find some library and get contacts to warmshowers hosts in San Fran. One we found in Corte Madera, but no hosts were available today. So we decided to stay at Golden Gate National Rec. Area. In Sausalito we saw San Francisco for the first time, nice view on the city, Alcatraz prison and Golden Gate Bridge. Some waiter gave us bread. And from buses with tourists we heard "Going to the San Francisco" song. When we finaly arrived to the camp we met there with ranger and he asked us if we have permit, becouse without it we cannot camp here. Of course we didn't have anything like this and visitor center where we could get one closed one hour ago. For while it looked bad, but than our ranger took our documents, played for while with radio and some papers and than finnaly we got permit to camp here. And all this procedure was necessery, even the camp is free :-) After we settle down, we walked on the top of the close hill and enjoyed night scenery of San Francisco in front of us.

Day 175 - 24th November, Bodega Bay - Valley Ford - Marshall - Pt. Reyes Station - Samuel P. Taylor State Park, 51.84 miles

Doobeda sme sa venovali ociste nasich spinavych tiel a veci v Bodega Dunes Campground, ale este po ceste tam sme sa pokochali pohladom na male zraloky snoriace na dne oceanu rovno pod utesmi, kde sme stali. Celkom dobry zazitok, ale takmer ho vytlacila do pozadia paradna horuca sprcha a chvilkovy pocit cistoty, nez sme nezacali opat odtacat kilometre na ceste do San Franciska. Tentoraz viedla cesta velkou oklukou vnutrozemim, cez vyprahnute pastviny, lesy tu boli vyklcovane uz pred davnou dobou a v tychto koncinach vsetko patrilo vsemocnym ranceriam. Presli sme cez zopar westernovych mesteciek ako Valley Ford ci Tomales. Vyprahnute pastviny posobili dost depresivne, viac sa nam pacilo, ked sme sa dostali spat k oceanu a krasnej zatoke Tomales. V miestnej restauracii sme nabrali vodu a zacali hladat miesto na spanie, ale vsade boli len nekonecne ploty z ostnateho drotu a nic vhodneho sme nenasli. Takze sme opat raz slapali az hlboko do noci az do Samuel P. Taylor State Park, co bol maly zbytok sekvojoveho lesa co sa tu nejakym zazrakom zachoval. Velke bolo nase prekvapenie, ked sme tu stretli Katie s Vinniem a Rachel s Timom. Privitali nas huronskym pokrikom a boli fakt nadseny ze sme sa opat stretli. Zvysok vecera sme sa s nimi rozpravali (vlastne len Baska, ja som robil veceru a piekol chleba) a bojovali sme s myvalmi, ktori uz stihli napachat nejake skody na Rachelinych zasobach, co uz ked bola leniva si ich dat do food boxu. Myvalovia jej uchmatli plnu tasku a zobrali si ju so sebou kdesi do lesa, uz ju nenasla.

Shower!!! But before we got there we saw small sharks in the ocean below cliffs. Than was the time to enjoy free hot shower in Bodega Dunes Campground. The feeling of the cleanes didn't last for long, because from Bodega Bay the Hwy 1 led us inland into dry hills with pastures and the temperature was really high. All around us were just ranches with pastures, the woods were cut down long time ago... This part of road was quite depresive, but the small towns like Valley Ford or Tomales reminded times of Wild West a little bit. But we liked the coast more and it was nice to got back to the ocean. Problem was that there wasn't any suitable place for the tent. So, again as yesterday we biked through the night in the freezing cold to Samuel P. Taylor State Park, which was piece of nice redwoods. Here was small surprise, at biker/hiker site we met again with Katie, Vinnie, Rachel and Tim. In the night we had again some fights with raccoons, they stolen Rachel's bag with food and took it to somewhere into the forest. 

Day 174 - 23rd November, Manchester - Anchor Bay - Gualala - Fort Ross - Jenner - Sonoma Coast Beach, 68.14 miles

Dnesny den, rovnako slnecny ako tie predchadzajuce sme zacali pekne z rana, nechajuc svajciarov aj americanov za sebou a prechadzajuc malebnymi udoliami pomedzi farmy, zo zaciatku dost daleko od pobrezia. Dnesok bol extra kopcovity, brzdy ani vychladnut nemali kedy a prevody sme prehadzovali ako na beziacom pase. Ale aj tak napriek peknemu startu rano nas postupne predbehli ako tazkonalozeny svajciary, tak aj lahkoodeny americania. Svajciarov sme uz nevideli, ale s americanmi sme sa stretli v Gualale, kde parkovalo ich podporne vozidlo a hotovili sa svedske stoly na obed. Slovo dalo slovo a uz im Baska len tak medzi recou sfutrovala polovicu zasob. Ja som mal voci tomu dost velke skrupule, zobral som si len tak v ramci slusnosti, co som neskor olutoval, kedze akosi nam nevysiel cas na poriadny obed (ono pri tom kochani a foteni ten cas leti...) A aj ked som spociatku na Basku zazeral, pre jej neokrochanost, neskor sa nam to naramne oplatilo, ze sa s touto skupinkou dala do reci a nadviazala kontakty, ale o tom az neskor. Zatial sme sa iba dozvedeli, ze su to vsetko ludkovia pracujuci v environmentalnej vychove a toto bola ich posezonna, teambuildingova tradicna akcia. Vlastne robili skoro to iste co my v Cuyahoge. Svet je naozaj maly, ked cestujes na bicykli a vsetci ludia su navzajom nejako prepojeni.
Za Fort Ross sme minuli skanzem s ruskymi kostolikmi a pravoslavnym klastorom, zbytky ruskeho osidlenia a asi to naj z historickych budov co sa da na zapadnom pobrezi najst :-). Neviem, preco sme neostali v blizkom State Parku spolu s Americanmi, ale tahali sme dalej, netusiac ze ideme do najtazsich kopcov na tomto useku, ale stalo to zato, pri slapani po uzkej ceste na okraji utesu padajuceho takmer kolmo cca 200 m do oceanu, sme si vychutnavali jeden z najkrajsich zapadov slnka tu na pobrezi. A napokon ani tento kopec nebol taky zly, akurat sme na jeho vrcholok prisli uz za tmy a to nas este cakal strhujuci zjazd do Jenneru po superuzkych serpentinach, za ktore by sa nemuseli hambit ani v Norsku. Ale zvladli sme to, ba dokonca aj prezili a za svetla celoviek ukrajovali kilometre do Jenneru, za ktorym mal byt Park s kempom. V noci sa riadne ochladilo, mali sme pocit, ze skoro mrzne. Kemp sme nenasli a tak sme si poslapali este o nejakych dalsich 10 km dalej az sme konecne narazili na RV kemp v Sonoma Coast Beach. Ale tento kemp bol totalne plny a len pre RVcka, nastastie nas prichilil na svojom placku "kemp host", co je nieco ako spravca. Keby ako na potvoru neprisla rangerka, mohli sme to mat zadarmo, takto sme si zaplatili, nastastie iba bajkersku cenu (to je 5$ na osobu, RVckari platia zvacsa okolo 30-50$ za miesto, ale zase ich tam moze byt ako hadov, takze ked sa to rozrata az o tolko drahsie to nemaju...) a dostali sme moznost pouzit zadarmo sprchu v najblizsom State Parku, kedze tu sprchy neboli (kazdy mal svoju vlastnu vo svojom RVcku), bolo to fajn, bo vzhladom na nedostatok drobnych v nasej kapse a nedostatok sprch vobec tu na pobrezi sme ziadnu sprchu nevideli uz okolo 10 dni a uz to zacalo byt celkom citit...

Again the sunny day with perfect wind. We started nicely early in the morning, left swiss couple and group of USA guys behind us. First we passed throught nice hills and valleys between farms, later came bigger and bigger hills. In an another pitoresque town with name Anchor Bay, where we stopped to buy some gasoline for our cooking stove, the swiss couple caught up with us and this was the last time what we saw them, hopefully they arrived safely to San Fran. Later we met also that USA group, first they left us behind, but then in Gualala we found them, having lunch on the side of the road. They invited us for the lunch, Baska was already pretty hungry, so they lost nearly half of their supplies :-). As Baska has been eating, we told them about our trip and usual staff, like where we came from, what we studied, etc ... and we found out that these guys are also environmental education teachers, as we were in Cuyahoga, but they are from camp in Santa Catalina Island and this trip is their tradition after the finished season. It was very good that we stopped there, even first I didn't want to, but later this new contacts helped us a lot. In the late afternoon we arrived to Fort Ross and probably the biggest hills on this part of coast. We passed next by old Russian church, the evidence of Russian settlement in this region. And spent beautiful evening with pedalling up to the crazy long and super steep hill, on the edge of cliff falling straight down to the ocean some 200 yards below us. But the sunset was gorgeous. Also the downhill ride in the dark through serpetines as from Norway. We houped that in Jenner will be state park with camp, but it wasn't and we had to go nearly to the Bodega Bay until we finnally found som RV park, it was completlly full and without hiker/biker site, but the camp host let us built the tent in front of his RV and told us about free showers in the next State Park. That was very good news, because we didn't have any change for showers, and there nearly haven't been any on the way here. And after 10 days without shower we were looking forward to this opportunity :-)

Day 173 - 22nd November, Mendocino - Elk - Manchester State Park, 35.31 miles

Doobedie sme stravili na pobrezi malebneho mestecka Mendocino, utesy v tomto mieste boli skratka dokonale, rovnako ako aj zatoky, v ktorych sa nachadzali. V dialke blikal majak ako vystrihnuty z nejakej pohladnice, obloha bola aj dnes blankytne modra a vietor v chrbte. Opat idealne podmienky a genialne vyhlady. Na jednom z kopcov opat stretavame Katie (Katie vyzera ako dvojicka Lucii Deutschovej, nie len vzhladom ale aj vystupovanim a hlasom, uz ani nie som velmi prekvapeny, len to potvrdzuje teoriu, ze na svete je len urcity pocet roznych typov ludi a skor ci neskor sa zacnu opakovat, mozno ma tento matrix malu kapacitu pamate alebo co, ale uz sme stretli dvojnikov asi vsetkych ludi co pozname a vsetci sa podobali nielen vzhladom ale aj spravanim, skratka ten isty clovek len v inom prostredi) a Vinnieho, trochu ich zdrzal pivovar vo Fort Bragg, coskoro nas vsak nechavaju za sebou. Kopce sme zdolavali az po Elk, za nim sa cesta prijemne vyrovnala a isli sme uz zvacsa len z kopca, prijemny oddych po vsetkych tych zatokach, ktore bolo treba zdolat, zvacsa prudky kopec dole a potom nahle prudky kopec hore, skoro ani nebol cas prehodit na lahsi prevod. Navecer prichadzame do Manchester State Park, ideme sa prejst na pobrezie s pieskovymi dunami (trochu zmena) a vychutnavame si paradny zapad slnka a obrovske vlny na oceane. V kempe vedla nas stanuje skupinka bajkerov na ceste do San Franciska, idu vsak nalahko, batozinu im vozi velike podporne vozitko. Stretli sme tu opat aj nasich starych znamich svajciarov, ti cestuju zase naopak, pekne natazko, zase nas raz ohurili tym co vytiahli zo svojich obrovskych baglov - solarnu pec - obrovsky slnecnik so zrkadlami vo vnutry a drziakom na esus, staci len zamierit na slnko a pockat ... hodinku? a obed je zohriaty :-) uz sa nedivime, ze maju tolko batoziny.

In the morning we are exploring the coast around Mendocino. The bay and cliffs here are absolutely spectacular. The Lighthouse on the horizon just finished the ilusion of some kind of impressionistic canvas painting. Also the town of Mendocino is very colorfull, with beautiful houses. On the way to Elk we passed through many small or big bays, enjoying gorgeous views on the cliffs or the ocean. But it wasn't for free, it was a lot of hard work to bike through all this bays, steep downhills took turns with steep uphills. On the one of hills we met again with Katie and Vinnie (Katie looked like twin of one of ours friends, I think that in this world is just some certain amount of types of people and soon or later you will see the same people again and again, just in diferent environment, we probably saw nearly all "twins" of our friends). Katie and Vinnie stayed a little behind, probably becouse that good brewery in Fort Bragg. But very soon they left us behind. After Elk came some rest, the road was more even here and withouth so many hills. We camped in Manchester State Park with its amazing sand dunes, where we had very nice evening with red sunset. In the camp we met again with the couple from Swiss, this time they surprised us with another piece with of their equipment, they had solar oven - big umbrella with mirrors. Now I understand why they have so big bags... Close to us camped another group of biker, but they traveled lightly, all gear was moved with support vehicle. 

Day 172 - 21st November, Westport - Cleone - Fort Bragg - Caspar - Russian Gulch State Park, 30.45 miles

A tak to vyslo, rano vstaneme a je nadherne slnecno, po hmle ani stopy. Skumame pobrezie, bicyklujeme kusok po starej jednotke, ktora uz padla za obet erozii a bola z polovice odrolena do oceanu. Zaciname husenkovu jazdu po pobrezi severnej Kalifornie, po pobrezi tak nadhernom az z toho prechadza zrak. Nadherne skaly roztodivnych tvarov, zatoky, plaze, farba oceanu je azurovo modra, na slnku je prijemne tepluco a v tieni skoro mrzne. Navyse okolite kopce na rozdiel od Oregonu nebiju do oci ohyzdnymi holorubmi, tu je vsake les a blizko pobreziu su pastviny a rance, pastva dobytka je dost extenzivna, mal som dojem, ze tu boli len preto aby dotvarali atmosferu. V jednej z pocetnych zakrut stretavame cyklistu smerujuceho z L.A. na Aliasku (s tym ze zimu precka vo Washingtone), na voziku zapriahnutom za bikom vezie okrem batoziny aj svojho verneho psiska, zda sa ze obom sa to paci.Uistuje nas, ze dalej to bude este omnoho kopcovitejsie. Dobre spravy vzdy potesia :-). Prechadzame prijemnymi mesteckami, zvacsa len pre tych majetnejsich. Pri Cleone utesy miznu a zrazu to tu vyzera ako v pusti, na siroko daleko len pieskove duny. Spravili sme zopar "pustnych" fotiek. Vo Fort Braggu nakupujeme potraviny a za pekneho zapadu slnka dochadzame do zavreteho Russian Gulch State Park na dne hlbokeho udolia. Zavreteho len na zavoru a s otvorenymi toaletami a tecucou vodou, idealne miesto pre nas. V noci bolo celkom slusne zima, rano sme sa zobudili do stanu pokryteho namrazou.

The miracles happen all the time. After foggy yesterday, today is sunny, good tailwind, perfect day for biking. The coast is getting more and more hilly and the views on the landscape around us are getting more and more spectacular. Amazing rock formations, cliffs, small bays, beaches, the hills around are with nice forest (big difference to compare with Oregon), on the slopes heading to the ocean are ranches and pastures with cows or horses. In one of many curves, we met one guy heading to Alaska (from L.A.), he would like to spend winter in Washington. What was interesting, was that he was carring his dog with him (quite big one). She was packed in the trolley and seems to enjoyed it. We passed through quite nice towns, probably mostly vacation residences for a rich people, but still with peacefull atmosphere. After Cleone the cliffs and rocks desappeared and everywhere was sand and sand dunes, nearly like in the desert. In Fort Bragg we did some grocery and after nice sunset we stayed in Russian Gulch State Park, even it was closed (at least we were alone). It was freezing in the night, in the morning the tent and grass was covered by frost.

Day 171 - 20th November, Leggett - Westport-Union Landing State Beach, 27.91 miles

Konecne prestalo prsat, nadranom sa uz iba hmla prevaluje udolim. Vyrazame zdolat najobavanejsiu cast severnej Kalifornie, kopec medzi mesteckom Leggett a pobrezim, ze vraj je najvyssi, strmy, cesta uzka, klukata a tak. V Leggette teda opustame 101 a zaciname jej pobreznu alternativu "dialnicu" (u nas by to bola vedlajsia cesta) c. 1. A zaciname stupat a zaciname sa klukatit a potit a to aj napriek chladivej hmle. No skor nez zacneme vypluvat dusu uz sme na vrchole kopca, prakticky to ani moc nebolelo. Premavka tiez ziadna, asi len dve auta. Ako sa hovori strach ma velke oci. Takychto kopcov sme uz zdolali mnoho. Navyse potom nas cakal paradny zjazd a slusne dlhy. Stretavame dva skupinky bajkerov (jedni nas dobehli v kopci Katie a Vinnie, druhych, Rachel a Tim, sme stretli pri zjazde, nasli na kraji cesty zrazenu sovicku (nieco ako vyrik), este zila ale dostala zasah do hlavy, tak tazko povedat ake mala sance na prezitie), vsetci smeruju na vianoce do Mexika. Jay sa rozhoduje trocha pridat, nechce na bajku stravit viac casu nez je nutne, takze sa lucime a sme zase sami. Myslim, ze chcel pridat aj preto, ze pocul od Vinnieho o vybornom pivovare v relativne nedalekom Fort Braggu. Pri prechadzani cez posledny kopec nas zdravy pri kraji cesty dedusko, sediaci vo svojom motorizovanom koleckovom kresle a neuspesne schovavajuci jointa. Marihuana je v Kalifornii na lekarsky predpis, staci povedat ze trpite migrenami, neviem co sa tak osival, usmev a travova aroma ho aj tak prezradzali...
Na pobrezi vchadzame do hustej a riadne mokrej hmly, cele pobrezie je v nej utopene. Kedze Hwy 1 je povestna svojim nadhernym pobrezim, rozhodujeme sa ostat v najblizsom kempe, aj ked je su iba nejake dve hodiny po obede, a pockat do zajtra, mozno sa vyjasni...

Today's chalenge was hill between Leggett and the coast. We heard about it horrible things. But then we were surprised how easy it was. Just another hill, no big deal. We were on the Hwy 1 now, The Coast Highway, legend of the west coast with spectaculars views on the ocean shore. On the way there we met another bikers Katie and Vinnie and Rachel and Tim. The second couple we met when they were observing small own sitting on the side of the road. The poor creature was hit by car and its head looked bad, probably didn't survived. All these bikers headed south to Mexico for Xmas. Jay desided to go with them, they were faster than we and he wanted to be in San Francisco as soon as possible (and Vinnie told him about famous brewery in Fort Bragg). After that dying owl on the side of the road, we met also one old man sitting in his motorised wheelchair smoking marihuana. Funny? Strange? 
The ocean coast was hidden in the fog and biking in it wasn't very fun, so we stayed at Westport-Union Landing State Beach, even it was only 2 p.m. Maybe tomorrow will be sunny...

Day 170 - 19th November, Standish-Hickey State Rec. Area, 0.29 miles

Celu noc prsi a aj cely den, ostavame kde sme, dnes sa nikomu bicyklovat nechce. Nas stan celkom odolaval, a to aj napriek tomu, ze z polovice bol v hlbokej kaluzi, takze sme spali na vodnej posteli, po pol roku non-stop pouzivania je to celkom pozitivne, Alp aj ked to nie je top znacka, tak sa celkom vyznamenal. Jay  bol na tom o poznanie horsie, celkom slusne ho vytopilo. Takze trochu spravil prieskum nedalekej restauracie a vybavil u jej majitela, ze mozeme preckat necas v malom pristresku co tam mali. Nebolo to bohvieco, ale aspon sme mali nejaku strechu nad hlavou a kedze nefukalo, boli sme od dazdu dost usetreni. Navyse sme boli v dosahu wifi, ktoru nam onen majitelko restauracie dovolil pouzivat. Je fajn, ze aj tu su pohodaci. V noci sa spustil taky lejak, ze keby sme nemali ten kusok strechy nad hlavou tak nas vytopi ako mysi, Alp neAlp.

It was raining all night and all day. Our tent was in the deep puddle, but the floor is still quite waterproof, so we didn't have to swim. Jay's tent wasn't so good, he looked quite wet after the night. And because he was the man of action, so thanks to him, we could move under a shelter which belong to the close restaurant. The owner of it was so cool that he let us use his wifi, so we spent whole day on the internet, sending emails, posting pictures and blog. In the night came very heavy rain, so we were double grateful for that small shelter.

Day 169 - 18th November, Phillipsville - Garberville - Standish-Hickey State Recreational Area (Leggett), 37.4 miles

Dnes je zase zatiahnute. Prechadzame dalsimi podivnymi mesteckami ako napr. Garberville, vsake tu vidno "nizkorozpoctovych" dharmovych tulakov za stastim, zvacsa v prastarych obytnych autach alebo inak na zivot prisposobenych vozitkach, alebo len tak s batohom a psom, hladajucich asi Jackov Kerouacov sen o slobode. V blizkosti potravin ich postavala cela tlupa, mal som z toho dost zmiesane pocity, mozno to bolo aj z toho vonaveho dymu co sa od nich zvacsa valil. Ale potraviny v Garberville ma milo prekvapili, relativne lacne, mali tam vsetko to co spravny dharmovy tulak na bicykli potrebuje a hrala tam prijemna hudba, tie najlepsie pecky zo 60 rokov. Po nakupoch sme pokracovali dalej, podmracenym dnom. Navecer sme stretli na kraji cesty stopujuceho bajkera. Volal sa Jay a isiel len "kusok" z Arcaty do San Franciska. Mysleli sme si, ze ma nieco s bicyklom, ale nakoniec vysvitlo, ze chcel len zviest po najblizsi kemp, lebo uz sa stmievalo a on nemal svetlo. My sme svetla mali a tak sme mu ponukli, ze moze ist s nami. Mozno to nakoniec aj trochu lutoval, lebo potom sme tahali este skoro dve hodiny, po hnusne uskej ceste s neprijemne hustou premavkou, po tme a navyse zacalo celkom slusne liat. Asi si musel mysliet ze Slovaci su pekne prasteny, ked takto jazdia, co nam ale tu v uzasnej USA ostava, ked vsetko je zadrotovane a sukromne a navyse tu sa  aj tak inde ostat nedalo nez Standish-Hickey State Recreational Area, kde sme to napokon zalomili na noc (ono, dalo sa ostat este v jednom komercnom kempe co bol blizsie, ale komu sa chce platit 40$ za noc?). V Standish-Hickey State Recreational Area nas nastastie nikto neskasiroval, takze sme tam prespali zadarmo, ale ich stvrtakove sprchy si pochutnali na nasich poslednych stvrtakoch co sme mali a potom aj tak odmietli fungovat, zlaty to Oregon so svojimi sprchami zadarmo...

Cloudy day, strange small towns, cool grocery store in the Garberville, where they played oldies, a lot of "hippies" in old vanes, a lot of bums and hobos and a lot of smell of the marihuana smoke everywhere.
The hwy is still copying the river, in quite nice valley. In the evening we met one biker - Jay. He was hitchhiking, because it was getting dark and he didn't have any lamp. He was on the way from Arcata to San Francisco. We offered him that he can go with us, we had lights :-) Well, I don't know how happy he was, because than we pedalled for nearly two hours in the dark. The road was windy with no real shoulder and deep canyon on our right side, it started to rain and the traffic was heavy. Probably he had to think that Slovaks are pretty crazy people if they ride in this conditions, well, we are, this wasn't first nor last time what we did it. Standish-Hickey State Recreational Area was fine, but they stupid showers ate all our quarters and refuse to work. How we missed Oregon and they showers for free...

Day 168 - 17th November, Humboldt Redwoods SP - Myers Flat - Phillipsville, 24.66 miles

Po osviezujucom spanku v sekvoji, moc sa nam ju nechcelo opustit, sme si este raz prezreli Rockefellerov okruh, tentoraz za svetla, zenuska uz tu nemeditovala. Po vcerajsom pluhavom pocasi ani stopy, dnes bolo pekne slnecno. Navratili sme sa na Aveniu of the Giants a pokracovali dalej na juh v hlbokom udoli, popri rieke so strasne divnym nazvom Short Fork Eeel River, prechadzajuc malymi podivnymi mesteckami s podivnymi ludmi a pachom marihuany... nasli sme peknu jablon plnu malych sladkych jablk (miestny ovocie zo stromov neoberaju, zrejme) a akesi podivne pagastany. Tato cesta na rozdiel od 101 bola prijemne prazdna aj ked viac dokopca a z kopca. Na druhu stranu aspon boli nejake pekne vyhlady, 101 bola zvacsa utopena dole v udoli. Prespali sme v malom sekvojovom lesiku pri Phillipsville, za ktorym sa uz bohuzial koncila krasna Aveniu of the Giants.

Last moments in this amazing state park. After refreshing sleep in our hollow redwood, we visited again that Rockefeller circle and walked around that beautiful trees again, this time in day light. After rainy yesterday our was sunny again. We returned to the Avenue of Giants. Biked in deep valley next to hwy 101, except some parts we nearly didn't have to be on 101, which was nice. Biked through Myers Flat and another small "towns" quite strange people live here, on the side of road we found some nice sweet apples and very strange buckeye tree. The road was winding next to Short Fork Eeel River, we were still on the Aveniu of the Giants. Slept near Phillipsville, where the Aveniu of the Giants end, actually a little bit behind it.

Day 167 - 16th November, Humboldt Redwoods State Park, 11.46 miles

Dnesok sme stravili prieskumom Humboldtovho Parku, bolo to zaroven take vencenie bicyklov, kedze tu nebolo nejake obzvlast vhodne miesto, kde by sme ich mohli nechat a zaroven pocasie sa od rana pomaly ale isto zhorsovalo. Takze sme trochu posilovali aj svoje ruky pri tlaceni nasich nalozenych tatosov. Hned z rana sme narazili na uzasnu obrovsku sekvoju s paradnou dutinou, kde by sme sa pohodlne zmestili aj nalezato, spolu aj so vsetkymi svojimi baglami. Chvilu sme nad tym rozmyslali a potom si povedali, ze ved preco nie... o miesto na noclah sme tym padom mali postarane. Potom sme si namahali krk zaklananim hlavy a snaziac sa dohliadnut vrcholky sekvoji, tyciace sa viac ako 100 metrov nad zemou a stracajucich sa v hmle. Hej, celkom sa zohmlilo a zacalo mrholit, potom trocha prsat, ale nie nadlho. Tlacili sme svoje 70 kg bajky po turistickom chodniku, klukatiacom sa lesom, obcas nam kopceky davali celkom zabrat a na zaver sme museli prebrodit potok a zdolat asi 5 metrov kolmu stenu brehu, kde boli iba vysekane schody. Tak sme sa trochu zahrali aj na nosicov :-). Pri prechode cez Rockefellerov okruh, s nadhernymi sekvojami, ale uz po tme sme nadabili na nejaku malu zenusku, sediacu pod sekvojou v hlbokej meditacii, v tej tme to posobilo zaujimavo. My sme si isli zameditovat do nasej dutej sekvoje. Celkom zaujimavy pocit spat v tisicrocnom strome. Spalo sa v nom vyborne.

Today we spent between magnificent redwoods, more hiking than biking. We found amazing tree with huge hollow, nearly perfectly round on the bottom and nice flat. Immediately we knew that this will be our next campingplace. Rest of the day we hiked between this, more than 300 feet high trees. It was raining a little bit and it was foggy, so we nearly didn't meet any people. Because there wasn't any good place where to leave our bikes we walked with them. It was quite funny, until the trail started to go uphill. Then there was one place where we had to wade through a creek (because it was already after season and the bridge was removed away) and pushed our bikes up onto very steep and high bank. Last part of the trail we did in the night, under one of the redwoods in the Rockefeller circle (part of park with the biggest trees) we met some woman in a deep meditation. Our own meditation/sleepingplace was in our perfect hollow tree, which we found in the morning, sleeping in the tree, I think that this was the first time. We really enjoyed it.

Day 166 - 15th November, Scotia - Pepperwood - Humboldt Redwoods State Park, 25.04 miles

Dnes sme opustili podivuhodnu Scotiu a vyrazili na slnkom zaliatu "freeway", ale iba na chvilu, bo coskoro sme sa napojili na Aveniu of the Giants, co je cesta veduca relativne zachovalym pasom prastarych redwoodsov, sice iba uzky pas kopirujuci 101tku, ale aspon nieco. Cesta to bola pekna, pomedzi relative velikanske redwoodsi, ziadna premavka, krasne zjazdy, nevelmi strme kopce. Moznosti kulturneho (materialistickeho) vyzitia v miestnom megasuvenirshope, moznost pokochat sa pohladom na "nesmrtelny" strom, ktory prezil jednu z najvacsich povodni co tu pamataju, poziare a dokonca aj drevorubacske sekery, taktiez moznost urobit nejake sibnute foto v dutom kmeni jedneho z padlych velikanov.
S Brook sme sa rozlucili pri Humboldt Redwoods State Park, ona bohuzial musela upalovat do San Francisca, kde jej za 9 dni odlieta lietadlo domov (New Jersey). Ale bolo to zaroven lucenie aj vitanie, lebo sme tu stretli dalsich dvoch bajkerov z Kanady. Kiri a Chris (?) boli z Montreolu a isli z Vancouveru do San Francisca. Celkom vyborni hippici, Chris mal "cyklotasky" vyrobene z plastovych kyblov na macacie zradlo, celkom genialna myslieka, je to velmi jedoduche, lacne, dokonale nepremokave a dost odolne. Kedze tiez tahali na San Francisco (tiez Chrisovi letelo lietadlo), Brook sa pridala k nim a tak tahali spolu. Ale aj tak to bolo celkom tazke lucenie, s Brook sme sa stali celkom dobrymi kamaratmi za tie dva dni, hlavne Basku to celkom zobralo.
Ale trochu pomohlo ked sme sa vnorili do Humboldtovho Redwoods parku, tu tiez ostalo nieco z tych 5% povodnych redwo odsov, ktore nepadli na obet sekeram a pilam a to co tu ostalo su tie najvyssie stromy na svete. Kym padla tma, trochu sme si to tu poobzerali a potom prespali v opustenom "environmentalnom" kempe, co znamenalo, ze tu bolo miesto na stany, stol s lavicami a hlavne box na jedlo.

Today we left Scotia and its weird people and enjoyed the biking on nearly empty freeway. But very soon we left 101 and went through Aveniu of the Giants, which was nice stripe of the Redwoods, which still left here. With beautiful trees, gentle slopes and nice downhill ride. For more materialistic oriented people there was gigantic souvenirs shop, right next to "Immortal Tree", huge redwood which survived fires, at least one of the biggest floods, which white man remember and also, miraculously, loggers (loggerheads :-)). There was also oportuity to take some goofy pictures inside of hollow trunk of the one of fallen gigants.
Near Humboldt Redwoods State Park we had to say goodbye to Brook, we would like to visit this park, with the tallest redwoods in the world (a piece of that 5% of old grown redwoods, which still left untouched). Brook had to go to San Francisco, the rest of her trip was carefully planned, in 9 days she is flying back home to New Jersey. So, it was a sad moment for us to split up, but before we did it we met another couple on the bikes, Kiri and her friend (sorry, I forgot the name), they were from Canada (Montreol) and they are also heading down to San Fran. This guys were really cool pair of hippies (I mean it in the good way). I liked their panniers, made from the cat food's boxes, it is really good idea, simple, durable, waterproof and cheap. Very soon we were talking like the old friends and Brook joined them for the rest of her trip, so she wasn't alone. After moment of sadness that we are alone again, we cheered up between amazing trees of Humboldt Redwoods State Park. For today we stayed in "closed", environmental camp and enjoyed beautiful calm evening.

Day 165 - 14th November, McKinleyville - Arcada - Eureka - Scotia, 53.66 miles

Michelle nám na rozlúčku pripravila kráľovské raňajky, jej pohostinnosť bola úžasná, boli sme za to nesmierne vďačný. Do najbližšieho mesta, Arcata, nás doviedla pekná cyklocesta, pomedzi farmy, kravy a pekne poza humná, takže žiadne autá nehrozili. Arcata bol splnený vegetariánsky, hipisácky, bohémsky sen, všetko iba malé lokálne, rodinné podniky, žiadne rýchle občerstvenia, všetko z organických fariem. Jedlo sme tu nekupovali tak neviem ako drahé ti bolo... Ale mali tu celkom dobrý cykloobchod, stále som mal menšie problémy so zadným kolesom. Poriadne ho skontrolovali a žiadnu vadu nenašli, ja som si myslel že je niečo v oske, potom ma upozornili na moje ošúpané pneumatiky, tak som kúpil nové a naozaj problém bol len v pneumatikách, škoda dúfal som, že USA dokončím ešte so starými. Arcata nad tiež prekvapila množstvom “dharmových“ tulákov, miestne námestíčko vyzeralo ako keby tu organizovali nejaký festival, ľudia tu sedeli pospolu, niektorí bubnovali, niektorí sa len tak povaľovali, vzduchom sa niesla vôňa omamného dymu... Tej už sme sa nezbavili, bolo ho cítiť v celej Kalifornii. Ďalšie mesto, ktorým sme len tak prefičali bola Euréka, zastavili sme sa tu len trochu niečo nakúpiť (tu už boli lacné obchody). Za Eurékou nás čakala 101, ktorá sa zmenila na naozajstné diaľničné monštrum. Najhoršie bolo, že sme museli križovať množstvo výjazdov z diaľnice, blížil sa už večer a veľa šoférov tu na západe ešte nepochopila, že svetlá ma to auto manuálne a treba trochu pohnúť rukou a zapnúť ich, takže blížiace sa autá sme občas ani nevideli, nehovoriac o tom, že sa aj tak hnali príliš rýchlo na to aby sme my s tým mohli niečo spraviť. Z diaľnice sme zišli v Scotii. Podivnom mestečku pod nadvládou miestnej obrovskej píly. Ľudia tu neboli veľmi prívetivý. Brook sa tu snažila vybaviť nocľah v miestnom kostole, ale odmietli ju. Na výhode nás ľudia bez problémov nechali prespať na záhrade, tu sme nepochodili ani na šiesty pokus. Nakoniec nám prastarý nočný strážnik poradil, že môžeme prespať na kúsku zeme nikoho pri diaľnici, ale že na severnom konci, bo na juhu sa teraz potuluje puma čakajúca na nejaké zrazeniny na ceste. Miestečko na severe bolo poblíž trochu podozrivej štvrte, ale strážnik nás prišiel skontrolovať či sme ok a hovoril, že bude tu mať službu po celú noc, milý ujko. Ale aj tak sme spali všetci spolu v jednom stane :-)

After rich breakfast and many thanks to our wonderful host we took bike trail to Arcata, it led us through farmland, between farms, calm road, scenery, no traffic at all. Arcata was a nice hippy town, everything was organic and local, even the bums (or "dharma" tramps?, one piazza looked like some Rainbow gathering) and the clouds of marihuana's smoke, which were our company for the rest of California :-). In one of a few local bike shops (Revolution Bicycle Repair, guys there were really cool, they checked my wheels, and helped me to solve my problem with "bumpy" back wheel, all free of charge, thanks) I bought a new tires, the old one were already too bumpy (it was like to bike on the dirt road all the time). Then we passed through Eureka, crazy traffic there, good Grocery Outlet, a lot of homeless people. Hwy 101 changed to busy freeway with many exits, which was always like to play Russian roulette to cross them, because some driver (it is quite typical for USA) don't bother with using signal lights, they just turn, who cares... (and many drivers especially here on the west coast don't use lights at all until it isn't totally dark, so in the evening they are pretty invisible).
To Scotia, our final destination for tonight, we came after dark. Scotia is small town which exist only thanks to a lumber industry, there is a  huge sawmill. We didn't have any place to stay here, Brook had contact to local church (she stayed also in churches, as an alternative to warmshowers), but it didn't work out here. From east part of USA we had good experience with ask people if we couldn't camp on their backyards, so we tried it here (about six houses in different parts of town), but without success. People here are just weird... Finally one night watchman showed us place where we could stay, it was on the north end of town, near freeway on "no man" land, he told us that south would be also good, but right now they have a "mountain lion" problem there (one female evidently like to go there in the night, looking for roadkills).