Monday, October 21, 2013

Day 140 - 20th October, Hoquiam - Raymond - Bruceport State Park, 43.44 miles

Keď prechádzame ranným Aberdeenom, náhle sa pred nami zastavuje premávka a mladý jeleň si pomaličky vykračuje cez cestu. Tu má aspoň istotu že ho nikto nezastrelí. Za Aberdeen sa dostávame do holorubnej (s)púšte, ktorú tu po sebe zanechali lesáci, aj s malým vysvetlením. A my sme hneď pochopili prečo je tu všade toľko tabúľ zlorečiacich NP Olympic. V 2007 totiž prišiel zlý ujo hurikán a pováľal im všetky tie nádherné smrekové monokultúry, ktoré tu s takou vervou všade sadia. Takže sa udialo presne to isté ako pod našimi Tatrami a keďže už teraz nemajú do čoho zatnúť, snažia sa dostať k stromom čo sú v parku. A samozrejme, keďže lesníci nedokážu žiť bez poriadnej dávky demagógie a propagandy tak tu všade trčia tie tabule. Našťastie sme v Hoquiam a Aberdeen videli aj tabule s opačným posolstvom.
Cez dorezané kopce sme sa dostali do mestečka Raymond a vychutnali si pekný večer bicyklujúc popri rieke Willapa. Akurát bol čas odlivu, takže rieka bola len malá stužka v skoro kilometer širokom koryte, obnažené blata boli ideálne pre bahniaky, ustupujúce voda po sebe zanechala fantastické mokrade, navečer z nich trocha stúpala hmla, miestami jediné suché miesto naokolo bola cesta pod nami. Skoro za tmy sme dorazili k Bruceport State Parku, situovanom na malej pieskovej dune/kopci. Bol už  zavretý (už je po sezóne), ale náš nejaká závora neodradila. A neboli sme jediný.

Day of chocolate blizzards from DQ, first in the morning in Aberdeen, even it was quite cold day (but now is cold nearly every day), than second one in Raymond. On our way through Aberdeen the cars in front of us suddenly stopped and a stag slowly walked through the road looking curiously around, a few men were standing around and clutching they teeth, they couldn't shoot it in the city... From Aberdeen to Raymond we biked through another horrible clear-cuts and here we found out why there are everywhere so many "No more Wilderness" or "Stop Wild Olympic" signs (luckily half city in Aberdeen and Hoquiam had signs like "Wild Olympic is our future" or "Save Wilderness"). So, probably, the true reason of this propaganda war is laying between Aberdeen and Raymond, whole that area is one huge clear-cut, nearly all hills around are without forest or with very young trees. It's mainly because hurricane from 2007 which hit this area and toppled down all these weak spruce monocultures planted with the foresters in the past. So, loggers in two years "salvaged" all wood what they could use, which practically mean that they took out everything and planted a new monocultures again. Only problem is, that now they have to wait for next 60 years till they will be able to harvest another trees here. Only good trees left in protected areas where forest was strong and lucky enough to resist that hurricane, which mean that there is a lot of big trees, a lot of money. When I saw all this and realized how ridiculous it is, I had to laugh. Exactly the same things happened also in Slovakia and loggers/foresters did same stuff as here, used same propaganda and also tried harvest last remaining trees from national parks. I don't know how successful were here, in Slovakia, unfortunately, were quite successful...
After we passed through that devastation left after loggers corporations we enjoy nice downhill ride to Raymond and than biked next to Willapa river. Because of a low tide, there were huge wetlands and muddy plains around that river, amazing ecosystem especially for shorebirds. Also in the evening light with a little bit of fog it had a nice, eerie atmosphere. In the evening we reached Bruceport State Park, it was closed but not for us :-) and judging by small dot of light from headlamp we were not only one bikers which ends up here.

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