Day 178 - 27th November, San Francisco, 28.63 miles

Prvý deň v San Franciscu. Najprv sme zablúdili do turistických pascí pri prístave, každé mólo tu ponúkalo nejakú inú silikónovú atrakciu a hordy zombáckych turistov. Horko-ťažko sa nám podarilo nájsť internet (Starbucks má vždy free wifi) a warmshowers hostiteľa, ale mohli sme k nej prísť až večer. Ono bol zázrak, že sme vôbec niekoho našli, deň pred vďakyvzdaním. Takže sme prešli popod gigantickú pyramídu patriacu nejakej banke, do čínskej štvrte, ktorá vyzerala celkom čínsky, naďabili sme náhodou na beatnické múzeum a prešli si Kerouacovou uličkou, zavítali do gréckej štvrte a potom prepletajúc sa rôznymi uličkami zavítali sme do Golden Gate parku, čo je obrovský nádherný park. Už sa stmievalo a tak sme ho len tak zbežne prešli, okrem botanickej a japonskej záhrady tu mali aj výbeh s bizónmi. Nemysleli sme si, že ich ešte uvidíme. Potom nás čakala cesta nocou, naprieč celým San Franciscom. Je to však “bajk friendly“ mesto a tak sme napredovali celkom rýchlo po cyklocestách, okolo nás sa preháňali ďalší, domáci, cyklisti. Problém trochu nastal, keď cyklocesta začala viesť po cestách cez ulice. Ako sme si to tak hnali nočným Friscom, zrazu nás niekto zdravý z chodníka. A čuduj sa svete bol to jeden chalan z tej americkej skupiny cyklistov, ktorým Baška mierne vyjedla zásoby, volal sa Jacob a po chvíli rozhovoru nás pozval k sebe domov, že môžeme prespať uňho, býva len zopár blokov od miesta kde sme boli. No dvakrát sme sa nerozmýšľali. Už na bajkoch vyzerali ako super ľudia, napokon boli rovnakého zmýšľania ako my a nemuseli sme sa trepať cez pol mesta. Našej pôvodnej hostiteľke tiež odľahlo, keď sme jej zavolali, už mala totiž nejakých hostí u seba, ale nechcela nás nechať v štichu. Jacob sa ukázal ako super hostiteľ, jeho dve spolubývajúce boli tiež príjemné osoby. Takže napokon sme prišli k streche nad hlavou ani sme nevedeli ako:-). Aká je šanca, že v meste o rozmeroch San Francisca stretnete na ulici jediného človeka, ktorého tu poznáte? A aj to len preto, že ste ho náhodou stretli pred pár dňami na ceste (zvyšok skupiny bol L.A.)? Nech mi niekto rozpráva, že zázraky neexistujú...

Today we finally entered San Francisco. First we went to the Piers, which was a really bad idea. That place was a nasty, crowded tourist trap. At least, we found some Starbuck with fee wifi and after long searching we found one warmshowers host which could host us for tonight. It was really hard to find someone, day before Thanksgiving :-), even our host had already some guests, but she was so nice  and said that we can stay. For the rest of the day, we were cycling through San Francisco, first China town, then we accidentally found Kerouac street, then went to Golden Gate park - it was really, really nice. In the evening was finally time to go to our host's house. Only problem was, that it was on the opposite site of the city. So, we were biking there (following one of many bike paths here), when somebody yelled at us from the sidewalk. And it was one guy from the group of bikers which we met on the way to San Francisco (and Baška ate half of their lunch :-), Jacob was the only one from them who lives in San Francisco. And when he found out where are we going for tonight, he told us that we can stay at his apartment, which was a couple blocks from where we were. Isn't it amazing, that there is only one person, who we know in the whole city and we "accidentally" meet him on the street, when we needed place to stay? So we called to out warmshowers host that we found somebody else (or somebody found us?) and overslept at Jacob's house.

Day 177 - 26th November, Golden Gate National Recreational Area - Bicentennial Campground, 1.52 miles

Dnes odpočívame, celý deň sme v kempe, čítame si, spíme, jeme, skrátka veget. Akurát som zbehol do blízkeho turistického centra, predĺžiť náš permit ešte o jeden deň. A koho že som tam nestretol, pracovala tam dokonalá dvojička Slávky z RPS.

The rest day, we stayed in the camp, only I went to the close visitor centre v for new permits :-) and I met there another twin of one ours friend :-)

Day 177 - 26th November, Golden Gate National Recreational Area - Bicentennial Campground, 1.52 miles

Day 176 - 25th November, Lagunitas - Corte Madera - Sausalito - Golden Gate National Rec. Area (Bicentennial Campground), 34.5 miles

Po tom co sme opustili Samuel P. Taylor State Park, v mrazivom rane, sme sa ocitli na prahu San Franciska, po zvysok dna sme sa prebojovavali cez male mestecka, hladajuc nejaky internet, aby sme si mohli najst nejakych warmshowers hostitelov v San Francisku. Nebolo to zdaleka take jednoduche, potrebovali sme ist na normalny pocitac, riesit to cez mobil bolo hodne zlozite, ale najst nejaku kniznicu tiez nebolo jednoduche. Nakoniec sme nasli jednu v Corte Madera a Baska ziskala nejake kontakty, ale nikto nebol volny, takze sme sa rozhodli ostat este pred San Franciskom v Golden Gate National Rec. Area, kde mal byt kemp zadarmo. Aj tak sme boli celkom unavany a na prechod San Franciskom sme si chceli dat chvilu pauzu. Po prichode do Sausalita sa nam otvorili prve vyhlady na San Francisko, Alcatraz a Golden Gate Bridge. Celkom pekna podivana. Nejaky casnik, ktory sa so mnou pustil do reci, zatial co Baska fotila mesto, nam daroval dva bochniky chleba. Do Bicentennial Campground sme dorazili skoro az za tmy a akurat sme tu stretli rangera. Pytal sa nas ci mame povolenie na kempovanie. To sme samozrejme nemali, blizke navstevnicke centrum, kde sa toto povolenie dalo vybavit, zavreli pred hodinou. Uz sme si zacinali mysliet, ze je to v kybli, ale ranger vytiahol vysielacku, velmi dolezito si vypytal nase doklady, nieco nadiktoval do vysielacky, vypisal trojmo nejake papiere a potom nam povedal, ze je to ok, mozeme tu prespat a dal nam vypisane povolenie, uz som bol uplne zblbnuty a chcel vytahovat peniaze, ocakavajuc nejaku horibilnu sumu za noclah, ale ono to bolo fakt zadarmo. Akurat to muselo byt nalezite prehnane byrokraciou, tak typickou pre USA. Takze sme nakoniec zaspavali s vyhladom na nocne San Francisko. Pred spanim sme si este vybehli na blizky kopec s byvalou delostreleckou bateriou, pokochat sa vyhladom (cela tato rekreacna oblast je byvala vojenska pevnost).

Today we left early in the morning and said goodbye to the other guys. It was pretty cold, nearly freezing. After we left redwoods, the rest of road led through towns and settlement around San Francisco. Our task for today was to find some library and get contacts to warmshowers hosts in San Fran. One we found in Corte Madera, but no hosts were available today. So we decided to stay at Golden Gate National Rec. Area. In Sausalito we saw San Francisco for the first time, nice view on the city, Alcatraz prison and Golden Gate Bridge. Some waiter gave us bread. And from buses with tourists we heard "Going to the San Francisco" song. When we finaly arrived to the camp we met there with ranger and he asked us if we have permit, becouse without it we cannot camp here. Of course we didn't have anything like this and visitor center where we could get one closed one hour ago. For while it looked bad, but than our ranger took our documents, played for while with radio and some papers and than finnaly we got permit to camp here. And all this procedure was necessery, even the camp is free :-) After we settle down, we walked on the top of the close hill and enjoyed night scenery of San Francisco in front of us.

Day 175 - 24th November, Bodega Bay - Valley Ford - Marshall - Pt. Reyes Station - Samuel P. Taylor State Park, 51.84 miles

Doobeda sme sa venovali ociste nasich spinavych tiel a veci v Bodega Dunes Campground, ale este po ceste tam sme sa pokochali pohladom na male zraloky snoriace na dne oceanu rovno pod utesmi, kde sme stali. Celkom dobry zazitok, ale takmer ho vytlacila do pozadia paradna horuca sprcha a chvilkovy pocit cistoty, nez sme nezacali opat odtacat kilometre na ceste do San Franciska. Tentoraz viedla cesta velkou oklukou vnutrozemim, cez vyprahnute pastviny, lesy tu boli vyklcovane uz pred davnou dobou a v tychto koncinach vsetko patrilo vsemocnym ranceriam. Presli sme cez zopar westernovych mesteciek ako Valley Ford ci Tomales. Vyprahnute pastviny posobili dost depresivne, viac sa nam pacilo, ked sme sa dostali spat k oceanu a krasnej zatoke Tomales. V miestnej restauracii sme nabrali vodu a zacali hladat miesto na spanie, ale vsade boli len nekonecne ploty z ostnateho drotu a nic vhodneho sme nenasli. Takze sme opat raz slapali az hlboko do noci az do Samuel P. Taylor State Park, co bol maly zbytok sekvojoveho lesa co sa tu nejakym zazrakom zachoval. Velke bolo nase prekvapenie, ked sme tu stretli Katie s Vinniem a Rachel s Timom. Privitali nas huronskym pokrikom a boli fakt nadseny ze sme sa opat stretli. Zvysok vecera sme sa s nimi rozpravali (vlastne len Baska, ja som robil veceru a piekol chleba) a bojovali sme s myvalmi, ktori uz stihli napachat nejake skody na Rachelinych zasobach, co uz ked bola leniva si ich dat do food boxu. Myvalovia jej uchmatli plnu tasku a zobrali si ju so sebou kdesi do lesa, uz ju nenasla.

Shower!!! But before we got there we saw small sharks in the ocean below cliffs. Than was the time to enjoy free hot shower in Bodega Dunes Campground. The feeling of the cleanes didn't last for long, because from Bodega Bay the Hwy 1 led us inland into dry hills with pastures and the temperature was really high. All around us were just ranches with pastures, the woods were cut down long time ago... This part of road was quite depresive, but the small towns like Valley Ford or Tomales reminded times of Wild West a little bit. But we liked the coast more and it was nice to got back to the ocean. Problem was that there wasn't any suitable place for the tent. So, again as yesterday we biked through the night in the freezing cold to Samuel P. Taylor State Park, which was piece of nice redwoods. Here was small surprise, at biker/hiker site we met again with Katie, Vinnie, Rachel and Tim. In the night we had again some fights with raccoons, they stolen Rachel's bag with food and took it to somewhere into the forest. 

Day 174 - 23rd November, Manchester - Anchor Bay - Gualala - Fort Ross - Jenner - Sonoma Coast Beach, 68.14 miles

Dnesny den, rovnako slnecny ako tie predchadzajuce sme zacali pekne z rana, nechajuc svajciarov aj americanov za sebou a prechadzajuc malebnymi udoliami pomedzi farmy, zo zaciatku dost daleko od pobrezia. Dnesok bol extra kopcovity, brzdy ani vychladnut nemali kedy a prevody sme prehadzovali ako na beziacom pase. Ale aj tak napriek peknemu startu rano nas postupne predbehli ako tazkonalozeny svajciary, tak aj lahkoodeny americania. Svajciarov sme uz nevideli, ale s americanmi sme sa stretli v Gualale, kde parkovalo ich podporne vozidlo a hotovili sa svedske stoly na obed. Slovo dalo slovo a uz im Baska len tak medzi recou sfutrovala polovicu zasob. Ja som mal voci tomu dost velke skrupule, zobral som si len tak v ramci slusnosti, co som neskor olutoval, kedze akosi nam nevysiel cas na poriadny obed (ono pri tom kochani a foteni ten cas leti...) A aj ked som spociatku na Basku zazeral, pre jej neokrochanost, neskor sa nam to naramne oplatilo, ze sa s touto skupinkou dala do reci a nadviazala kontakty, ale o tom az neskor. Zatial sme sa iba dozvedeli, ze su to vsetko ludkovia pracujuci v environmentalnej vychove a toto bola ich posezonna, teambuildingova tradicna akcia. Vlastne robili skoro to iste co my v Cuyahoge. Svet je naozaj maly, ked cestujes na bicykli a vsetci ludia su navzajom nejako prepojeni.
Za Fort Ross sme minuli skanzem s ruskymi kostolikmi a pravoslavnym klastorom, zbytky ruskeho osidlenia a asi to naj z historickych budov co sa da na zapadnom pobrezi najst :-). Neviem, preco sme neostali v blizkom State Parku spolu s Americanmi, ale tahali sme dalej, netusiac ze ideme do najtazsich kopcov na tomto useku, ale stalo to zato, pri slapani po uzkej ceste na okraji utesu padajuceho takmer kolmo cca 200 m do oceanu, sme si vychutnavali jeden z najkrajsich zapadov slnka tu na pobrezi. A napokon ani tento kopec nebol taky zly, akurat sme na jeho vrcholok prisli uz za tmy a to nas este cakal strhujuci zjazd do Jenneru po superuzkych serpentinach, za ktore by sa nemuseli hambit ani v Norsku. Ale zvladli sme to, ba dokonca aj prezili a za svetla celoviek ukrajovali kilometre do Jenneru, za ktorym mal byt Park s kempom. V noci sa riadne ochladilo, mali sme pocit, ze skoro mrzne. Kemp sme nenasli a tak sme si poslapali este o nejakych dalsich 10 km dalej az sme konecne narazili na RV kemp v Sonoma Coast Beach. Ale tento kemp bol totalne plny a len pre RVcka, nastastie nas prichilil na svojom placku "kemp host", co je nieco ako spravca. Keby ako na potvoru neprisla rangerka, mohli sme to mat zadarmo, takto sme si zaplatili, nastastie iba bajkersku cenu (to je 5$ na osobu, RVckari platia zvacsa okolo 30-50$ za miesto, ale zase ich tam moze byt ako hadov, takze ked sa to rozrata az o tolko drahsie to nemaju...) a dostali sme moznost pouzit zadarmo sprchu v najblizsom State Parku, kedze tu sprchy neboli (kazdy mal svoju vlastnu vo svojom RVcku), bolo to fajn, bo vzhladom na nedostatok drobnych v nasej kapse a nedostatok sprch vobec tu na pobrezi sme ziadnu sprchu nevideli uz okolo 10 dni a uz to zacalo byt celkom citit...

Again the sunny day with perfect wind. We started nicely early in the morning, left swiss couple and group of USA guys behind us. First we passed throught nice hills and valleys between farms, later came bigger and bigger hills. In an another pitoresque town with name Anchor Bay, where we stopped to buy some gasoline for our cooking stove, the swiss couple caught up with us and this was the last time what we saw them, hopefully they arrived safely to San Fran. Later we met also that USA group, first they left us behind, but then in Gualala we found them, having lunch on the side of the road. They invited us for the lunch, Baska was already pretty hungry, so they lost nearly half of their supplies :-). As Baska has been eating, we told them about our trip and usual staff, like where we came from, what we studied, etc ... and we found out that these guys are also environmental education teachers, as we were in Cuyahoga, but they are from camp in Santa Catalina Island and this trip is their tradition after the finished season. It was very good that we stopped there, even first I didn't want to, but later this new contacts helped us a lot. In the late afternoon we arrived to Fort Ross and probably the biggest hills on this part of coast. We passed next by old Russian church, the evidence of Russian settlement in this region. And spent beautiful evening with pedalling up to the crazy long and super steep hill, on the edge of cliff falling straight down to the ocean some 200 yards below us. But the sunset was gorgeous. Also the downhill ride in the dark through serpetines as from Norway. We houped that in Jenner will be state park with camp, but it wasn't and we had to go nearly to the Bodega Bay until we finnally found som RV park, it was completlly full and without hiker/biker site, but the camp host let us built the tent in front of his RV and told us about free showers in the next State Park. That was very good news, because we didn't have any change for showers, and there nearly haven't been any on the way here. And after 10 days without shower we were looking forward to this opportunity :-)

Day 173 - 22nd November, Mendocino - Elk - Manchester State Park, 35.31 miles

Doobedie sme stravili na pobrezi malebneho mestecka Mendocino, utesy v tomto mieste boli skratka dokonale, rovnako ako aj zatoky, v ktorych sa nachadzali. V dialke blikal majak ako vystrihnuty z nejakej pohladnice, obloha bola aj dnes blankytne modra a vietor v chrbte. Opat idealne podmienky a genialne vyhlady. Na jednom z kopcov opat stretavame Katie (Katie vyzera ako dvojicka Lucii Deutschovej, nie len vzhladom ale aj vystupovanim a hlasom, uz ani nie som velmi prekvapeny, len to potvrdzuje teoriu, ze na svete je len urcity pocet roznych typov ludi a skor ci neskor sa zacnu opakovat, mozno ma tento matrix malu kapacitu pamate alebo co, ale uz sme stretli dvojnikov asi vsetkych ludi co pozname a vsetci sa podobali nielen vzhladom ale aj spravanim, skratka ten isty clovek len v inom prostredi) a Vinnieho, trochu ich zdrzal pivovar vo Fort Bragg, coskoro nas vsak nechavaju za sebou. Kopce sme zdolavali az po Elk, za nim sa cesta prijemne vyrovnala a isli sme uz zvacsa len z kopca, prijemny oddych po vsetkych tych zatokach, ktore bolo treba zdolat, zvacsa prudky kopec dole a potom nahle prudky kopec hore, skoro ani nebol cas prehodit na lahsi prevod. Navecer prichadzame do Manchester State Park, ideme sa prejst na pobrezie s pieskovymi dunami (trochu zmena) a vychutnavame si paradny zapad slnka a obrovske vlny na oceane. V kempe vedla nas stanuje skupinka bajkerov na ceste do San Franciska, idu vsak nalahko, batozinu im vozi velike podporne vozitko. Stretli sme tu opat aj nasich starych znamich svajciarov, ti cestuju zase naopak, pekne natazko, zase nas raz ohurili tym co vytiahli zo svojich obrovskych baglov - solarnu pec - obrovsky slnecnik so zrkadlami vo vnutry a drziakom na esus, staci len zamierit na slnko a pockat ... hodinku? a obed je zohriaty :-) uz sa nedivime, ze maju tolko batoziny.

In the morning we are exploring the coast around Mendocino. The bay and cliffs here are absolutely spectacular. The Lighthouse on the horizon just finished the ilusion of some kind of impressionistic canvas painting. Also the town of Mendocino is very colorfull, with beautiful houses. On the way to Elk we passed through many small or big bays, enjoying gorgeous views on the cliffs or the ocean. But it wasn't for free, it was a lot of hard work to bike through all this bays, steep downhills took turns with steep uphills. On the one of hills we met again with Katie and Vinnie (Katie looked like twin of one of ours friends, I think that in this world is just some certain amount of types of people and soon or later you will see the same people again and again, just in diferent environment, we probably saw nearly all "twins" of our friends). Katie and Vinnie stayed a little behind, probably becouse that good brewery in Fort Bragg. But very soon they left us behind. After Elk came some rest, the road was more even here and withouth so many hills. We camped in Manchester State Park with its amazing sand dunes, where we had very nice evening with red sunset. In the camp we met again with the couple from Swiss, this time they surprised us with another piece with of their equipment, they had solar oven - big umbrella with mirrors. Now I understand why they have so big bags... Close to us camped another group of biker, but they traveled lightly, all gear was moved with support vehicle. 

Day 172 - 21st November, Westport - Cleone - Fort Bragg - Caspar - Russian Gulch State Park, 30.45 miles

A tak to vyslo, rano vstaneme a je nadherne slnecno, po hmle ani stopy. Skumame pobrezie, bicyklujeme kusok po starej jednotke, ktora uz padla za obet erozii a bola z polovice odrolena do oceanu. Zaciname husenkovu jazdu po pobrezi severnej Kalifornie, po pobrezi tak nadhernom az z toho prechadza zrak. Nadherne skaly roztodivnych tvarov, zatoky, plaze, farba oceanu je azurovo modra, na slnku je prijemne tepluco a v tieni skoro mrzne. Navyse okolite kopce na rozdiel od Oregonu nebiju do oci ohyzdnymi holorubmi, tu je vsake les a blizko pobreziu su pastviny a rance, pastva dobytka je dost extenzivna, mal som dojem, ze tu boli len preto aby dotvarali atmosferu. V jednej z pocetnych zakrut stretavame cyklistu smerujuceho z L.A. na Aliasku (s tym ze zimu precka vo Washingtone), na voziku zapriahnutom za bikom vezie okrem batoziny aj svojho verneho psiska, zda sa ze obom sa to paci.Uistuje nas, ze dalej to bude este omnoho kopcovitejsie. Dobre spravy vzdy potesia :-). Prechadzame prijemnymi mesteckami, zvacsa len pre tych majetnejsich. Pri Cleone utesy miznu a zrazu to tu vyzera ako v pusti, na siroko daleko len pieskove duny. Spravili sme zopar "pustnych" fotiek. Vo Fort Braggu nakupujeme potraviny a za pekneho zapadu slnka dochadzame do zavreteho Russian Gulch State Park na dne hlbokeho udolia. Zavreteho len na zavoru a s otvorenymi toaletami a tecucou vodou, idealne miesto pre nas. V noci bolo celkom slusne zima, rano sme sa zobudili do stanu pokryteho namrazou.

The miracles happen all the time. After foggy yesterday, today is sunny, good tailwind, perfect day for biking. The coast is getting more and more hilly and the views on the landscape around us are getting more and more spectacular. Amazing rock formations, cliffs, small bays, beaches, the hills around are with nice forest (big difference to compare with Oregon), on the slopes heading to the ocean are ranches and pastures with cows or horses. In one of many curves, we met one guy heading to Alaska (from L.A.), he would like to spend winter in Washington. What was interesting, was that he was carring his dog with him (quite big one). She was packed in the trolley and seems to enjoyed it. We passed through quite nice towns, probably mostly vacation residences for a rich people, but still with peacefull atmosphere. After Cleone the cliffs and rocks desappeared and everywhere was sand and sand dunes, nearly like in the desert. In Fort Bragg we did some grocery and after nice sunset we stayed in Russian Gulch State Park, even it was closed (at least we were alone). It was freezing in the night, in the morning the tent and grass was covered by frost.

Day 171 - 20th November, Leggett - Westport-Union Landing State Beach, 27.91 miles

Konecne prestalo prsat, nadranom sa uz iba hmla prevaluje udolim. Vyrazame zdolat najobavanejsiu cast severnej Kalifornie, kopec medzi mesteckom Leggett a pobrezim, ze vraj je najvyssi, strmy, cesta uzka, klukata a tak. V Leggette teda opustame 101 a zaciname jej pobreznu alternativu "dialnicu" (u nas by to bola vedlajsia cesta) c. 1. A zaciname stupat a zaciname sa klukatit a potit a to aj napriek chladivej hmle. No skor nez zacneme vypluvat dusu uz sme na vrchole kopca, prakticky to ani moc nebolelo. Premavka tiez ziadna, asi len dve auta. Ako sa hovori strach ma velke oci. Takychto kopcov sme uz zdolali mnoho. Navyse potom nas cakal paradny zjazd a slusne dlhy. Stretavame dva skupinky bajkerov (jedni nas dobehli v kopci Katie a Vinnie, druhych, Rachel a Tim, sme stretli pri zjazde, nasli na kraji cesty zrazenu sovicku (nieco ako vyrik), este zila ale dostala zasah do hlavy, tak tazko povedat ake mala sance na prezitie), vsetci smeruju na vianoce do Mexika. Jay sa rozhoduje trocha pridat, nechce na bajku stravit viac casu nez je nutne, takze sa lucime a sme zase sami. Myslim, ze chcel pridat aj preto, ze pocul od Vinnieho o vybornom pivovare v relativne nedalekom Fort Braggu. Pri prechadzani cez posledny kopec nas zdravy pri kraji cesty dedusko, sediaci vo svojom motorizovanom koleckovom kresle a neuspesne schovavajuci jointa. Marihuana je v Kalifornii na lekarsky predpis, staci povedat ze trpite migrenami, neviem co sa tak osival, usmev a travova aroma ho aj tak prezradzali...
Na pobrezi vchadzame do hustej a riadne mokrej hmly, cele pobrezie je v nej utopene. Kedze Hwy 1 je povestna svojim nadhernym pobrezim, rozhodujeme sa ostat v najblizsom kempe, aj ked je su iba nejake dve hodiny po obede, a pockat do zajtra, mozno sa vyjasni...

Today's chalenge was hill between Leggett and the coast. We heard about it horrible things. But then we were surprised how easy it was. Just another hill, no big deal. We were on the Hwy 1 now, The Coast Highway, legend of the west coast with spectaculars views on the ocean shore. On the way there we met another bikers Katie and Vinnie and Rachel and Tim. The second couple we met when they were observing small own sitting on the side of the road. The poor creature was hit by car and its head looked bad, probably didn't survived. All these bikers headed south to Mexico for Xmas. Jay desided to go with them, they were faster than we and he wanted to be in San Francisco as soon as possible (and Vinnie told him about famous brewery in Fort Bragg). After that dying owl on the side of the road, we met also one old man sitting in his motorised wheelchair smoking marihuana. Funny? Strange? 
The ocean coast was hidden in the fog and biking in it wasn't very fun, so we stayed at Westport-Union Landing State Beach, even it was only 2 p.m. Maybe tomorrow will be sunny...

Day 170 - 19th November, Standish-Hickey State Rec. Area, 0.29 miles

Celu noc prsi a aj cely den, ostavame kde sme, dnes sa nikomu bicyklovat nechce. Nas stan celkom odolaval, a to aj napriek tomu, ze z polovice bol v hlbokej kaluzi, takze sme spali na vodnej posteli, po pol roku non-stop pouzivania je to celkom pozitivne, Alp aj ked to nie je top znacka, tak sa celkom vyznamenal. Jay  bol na tom o poznanie horsie, celkom slusne ho vytopilo. Takze trochu spravil prieskum nedalekej restauracie a vybavil u jej majitela, ze mozeme preckat necas v malom pristresku co tam mali. Nebolo to bohvieco, ale aspon sme mali nejaku strechu nad hlavou a kedze nefukalo, boli sme od dazdu dost usetreni. Navyse sme boli v dosahu wifi, ktoru nam onen majitelko restauracie dovolil pouzivat. Je fajn, ze aj tu su pohodaci. V noci sa spustil taky lejak, ze keby sme nemali ten kusok strechy nad hlavou tak nas vytopi ako mysi, Alp neAlp.

It was raining all night and all day. Our tent was in the deep puddle, but the floor is still quite waterproof, so we didn't have to swim. Jay's tent wasn't so good, he looked quite wet after the night. And because he was the man of action, so thanks to him, we could move under a shelter which belong to the close restaurant. The owner of it was so cool that he let us use his wifi, so we spent whole day on the internet, sending emails, posting pictures and blog. In the night came very heavy rain, so we were double grateful for that small shelter.

Day 169 - 18th November, Phillipsville - Garberville - Standish-Hickey State Recreational Area (Leggett), 37.4 miles

Dnes je zase zatiahnute. Prechadzame dalsimi podivnymi mesteckami ako napr. Garberville, vsake tu vidno "nizkorozpoctovych" dharmovych tulakov za stastim, zvacsa v prastarych obytnych autach alebo inak na zivot prisposobenych vozitkach, alebo len tak s batohom a psom, hladajucich asi Jackov Kerouacov sen o slobode. V blizkosti potravin ich postavala cela tlupa, mal som z toho dost zmiesane pocity, mozno to bolo aj z toho vonaveho dymu co sa od nich zvacsa valil. Ale potraviny v Garberville ma milo prekvapili, relativne lacne, mali tam vsetko to co spravny dharmovy tulak na bicykli potrebuje a hrala tam prijemna hudba, tie najlepsie pecky zo 60 rokov. Po nakupoch sme pokracovali dalej, podmracenym dnom. Navecer sme stretli na kraji cesty stopujuceho bajkera. Volal sa Jay a isiel len "kusok" z Arcaty do San Franciska. Mysleli sme si, ze ma nieco s bicyklom, ale nakoniec vysvitlo, ze chcel len zviest po najblizsi kemp, lebo uz sa stmievalo a on nemal svetlo. My sme svetla mali a tak sme mu ponukli, ze moze ist s nami. Mozno to nakoniec aj trochu lutoval, lebo potom sme tahali este skoro dve hodiny, po hnusne uskej ceste s neprijemne hustou premavkou, po tme a navyse zacalo celkom slusne liat. Asi si musel mysliet ze Slovaci su pekne prasteny, ked takto jazdia, co nam ale tu v uzasnej USA ostava, ked vsetko je zadrotovane a sukromne a navyse tu sa  aj tak inde ostat nedalo nez Standish-Hickey State Recreational Area, kde sme to napokon zalomili na noc (ono, dalo sa ostat este v jednom komercnom kempe co bol blizsie, ale komu sa chce platit 40$ za noc?). V Standish-Hickey State Recreational Area nas nastastie nikto neskasiroval, takze sme tam prespali zadarmo, ale ich stvrtakove sprchy si pochutnali na nasich poslednych stvrtakoch co sme mali a potom aj tak odmietli fungovat, zlaty to Oregon so svojimi sprchami zadarmo...

Cloudy day, strange small towns, cool grocery store in the Garberville, where they played oldies, a lot of "hippies" in old vanes, a lot of bums and hobos and a lot of smell of the marihuana smoke everywhere.
The hwy is still copying the river, in quite nice valley. In the evening we met one biker - Jay. He was hitchhiking, because it was getting dark and he didn't have any lamp. He was on the way from Arcata to San Francisco. We offered him that he can go with us, we had lights :-) Well, I don't know how happy he was, because than we pedalled for nearly two hours in the dark. The road was windy with no real shoulder and deep canyon on our right side, it started to rain and the traffic was heavy. Probably he had to think that Slovaks are pretty crazy people if they ride in this conditions, well, we are, this wasn't first nor last time what we did it. Standish-Hickey State Recreational Area was fine, but they stupid showers ate all our quarters and refuse to work. How we missed Oregon and they showers for free...

Day 168 - 17th November, Humboldt Redwoods SP - Myers Flat - Phillipsville, 24.66 miles

Po osviezujucom spanku v sekvoji, moc sa nam ju nechcelo opustit, sme si este raz prezreli Rockefellerov okruh, tentoraz za svetla, zenuska uz tu nemeditovala. Po vcerajsom pluhavom pocasi ani stopy, dnes bolo pekne slnecno. Navratili sme sa na Aveniu of the Giants a pokracovali dalej na juh v hlbokom udoli, popri rieke so strasne divnym nazvom Short Fork Eeel River, prechadzajuc malymi podivnymi mesteckami s podivnymi ludmi a pachom marihuany... nasli sme peknu jablon plnu malych sladkych jablk (miestny ovocie zo stromov neoberaju, zrejme) a akesi podivne pagastany. Tato cesta na rozdiel od 101 bola prijemne prazdna aj ked viac dokopca a z kopca. Na druhu stranu aspon boli nejake pekne vyhlady, 101 bola zvacsa utopena dole v udoli. Prespali sme v malom sekvojovom lesiku pri Phillipsville, za ktorym sa uz bohuzial koncila krasna Aveniu of the Giants.

Last moments in this amazing state park. After refreshing sleep in our hollow redwood, we visited again that Rockefeller circle and walked around that beautiful trees again, this time in day light. After rainy yesterday our was sunny again. We returned to the Avenue of Giants. Biked in deep valley next to hwy 101, except some parts we nearly didn't have to be on 101, which was nice. Biked through Myers Flat and another small "towns" quite strange people live here, on the side of road we found some nice sweet apples and very strange buckeye tree. The road was winding next to Short Fork Eeel River, we were still on the Aveniu of the Giants. Slept near Phillipsville, where the Aveniu of the Giants end, actually a little bit behind it.

Day 167 - 16th November, Humboldt Redwoods State Park, 11.46 miles

Dnesok sme stravili prieskumom Humboldtovho Parku, bolo to zaroven take vencenie bicyklov, kedze tu nebolo nejake obzvlast vhodne miesto, kde by sme ich mohli nechat a zaroven pocasie sa od rana pomaly ale isto zhorsovalo. Takze sme trochu posilovali aj svoje ruky pri tlaceni nasich nalozenych tatosov. Hned z rana sme narazili na uzasnu obrovsku sekvoju s paradnou dutinou, kde by sme sa pohodlne zmestili aj nalezato, spolu aj so vsetkymi svojimi baglami. Chvilu sme nad tym rozmyslali a potom si povedali, ze ved preco nie... o miesto na noclah sme tym padom mali postarane. Potom sme si namahali krk zaklananim hlavy a snaziac sa dohliadnut vrcholky sekvoji, tyciace sa viac ako 100 metrov nad zemou a stracajucich sa v hmle. Hej, celkom sa zohmlilo a zacalo mrholit, potom trocha prsat, ale nie nadlho. Tlacili sme svoje 70 kg bajky po turistickom chodniku, klukatiacom sa lesom, obcas nam kopceky davali celkom zabrat a na zaver sme museli prebrodit potok a zdolat asi 5 metrov kolmu stenu brehu, kde boli iba vysekane schody. Tak sme sa trochu zahrali aj na nosicov :-). Pri prechode cez Rockefellerov okruh, s nadhernymi sekvojami, ale uz po tme sme nadabili na nejaku malu zenusku, sediacu pod sekvojou v hlbokej meditacii, v tej tme to posobilo zaujimavo. My sme si isli zameditovat do nasej dutej sekvoje. Celkom zaujimavy pocit spat v tisicrocnom strome. Spalo sa v nom vyborne.

Today we spent between magnificent redwoods, more hiking than biking. We found amazing tree with huge hollow, nearly perfectly round on the bottom and nice flat. Immediately we knew that this will be our next campingplace. Rest of the day we hiked between this, more than 300 feet high trees. It was raining a little bit and it was foggy, so we nearly didn't meet any people. Because there wasn't any good place where to leave our bikes we walked with them. It was quite funny, until the trail started to go uphill. Then there was one place where we had to wade through a creek (because it was already after season and the bridge was removed away) and pushed our bikes up onto very steep and high bank. Last part of the trail we did in the night, under one of the redwoods in the Rockefeller circle (part of park with the biggest trees) we met some woman in a deep meditation. Our own meditation/sleepingplace was in our perfect hollow tree, which we found in the morning, sleeping in the tree, I think that this was the first time. We really enjoyed it.

Day 166 - 15th November, Scotia - Pepperwood - Humboldt Redwoods State Park, 25.04 miles

Dnes sme opustili podivuhodnu Scotiu a vyrazili na slnkom zaliatu "freeway", ale iba na chvilu, bo coskoro sme sa napojili na Aveniu of the Giants, co je cesta veduca relativne zachovalym pasom prastarych redwoodsov, sice iba uzky pas kopirujuci 101tku, ale aspon nieco. Cesta to bola pekna, pomedzi relative velikanske redwoodsi, ziadna premavka, krasne zjazdy, nevelmi strme kopce. Moznosti kulturneho (materialistickeho) vyzitia v miestnom megasuvenirshope, moznost pokochat sa pohladom na "nesmrtelny" strom, ktory prezil jednu z najvacsich povodni co tu pamataju, poziare a dokonca aj drevorubacske sekery, taktiez moznost urobit nejake sibnute foto v dutom kmeni jedneho z padlych velikanov.
S Brook sme sa rozlucili pri Humboldt Redwoods State Park, ona bohuzial musela upalovat do San Francisca, kde jej za 9 dni odlieta lietadlo domov (New Jersey). Ale bolo to zaroven lucenie aj vitanie, lebo sme tu stretli dalsich dvoch bajkerov z Kanady. Kiri a Chris (?) boli z Montreolu a isli z Vancouveru do San Francisca. Celkom vyborni hippici, Chris mal "cyklotasky" vyrobene z plastovych kyblov na macacie zradlo, celkom genialna myslieka, je to velmi jedoduche, lacne, dokonale nepremokave a dost odolne. Kedze tiez tahali na San Francisco (tiez Chrisovi letelo lietadlo), Brook sa pridala k nim a tak tahali spolu. Ale aj tak to bolo celkom tazke lucenie, s Brook sme sa stali celkom dobrymi kamaratmi za tie dva dni, hlavne Basku to celkom zobralo.
Ale trochu pomohlo ked sme sa vnorili do Humboldtovho Redwoods parku, tu tiez ostalo nieco z tych 5% povodnych redwo odsov, ktore nepadli na obet sekeram a pilam a to co tu ostalo su tie najvyssie stromy na svete. Kym padla tma, trochu sme si to tu poobzerali a potom prespali v opustenom "environmentalnom" kempe, co znamenalo, ze tu bolo miesto na stany, stol s lavicami a hlavne box na jedlo.

Today we left Scotia and its weird people and enjoyed the biking on nearly empty freeway. But very soon we left 101 and went through Aveniu of the Giants, which was nice stripe of the Redwoods, which still left here. With beautiful trees, gentle slopes and nice downhill ride. For more materialistic oriented people there was gigantic souvenirs shop, right next to "Immortal Tree", huge redwood which survived fires, at least one of the biggest floods, which white man remember and also, miraculously, loggers (loggerheads :-)). There was also oportuity to take some goofy pictures inside of hollow trunk of the one of fallen gigants.
Near Humboldt Redwoods State Park we had to say goodbye to Brook, we would like to visit this park, with the tallest redwoods in the world (a piece of that 5% of old grown redwoods, which still left untouched). Brook had to go to San Francisco, the rest of her trip was carefully planned, in 9 days she is flying back home to New Jersey. So, it was a sad moment for us to split up, but before we did it we met another couple on the bikes, Kiri and her friend (sorry, I forgot the name), they were from Canada (Montreol) and they are also heading down to San Fran. This guys were really cool pair of hippies (I mean it in the good way). I liked their panniers, made from the cat food's boxes, it is really good idea, simple, durable, waterproof and cheap. Very soon we were talking like the old friends and Brook joined them for the rest of her trip, so she wasn't alone. After moment of sadness that we are alone again, we cheered up between amazing trees of Humboldt Redwoods State Park. For today we stayed in "closed", environmental camp and enjoyed beautiful calm evening.

Day 165 - 14th November, McKinleyville - Arcada - Eureka - Scotia, 53.66 miles

Michelle nám na rozlúčku pripravila kráľovské raňajky, jej pohostinnosť bola úžasná, boli sme za to nesmierne vďačný. Do najbližšieho mesta, Arcata, nás doviedla pekná cyklocesta, pomedzi farmy, kravy a pekne poza humná, takže žiadne autá nehrozili. Arcata bol splnený vegetariánsky, hipisácky, bohémsky sen, všetko iba malé lokálne, rodinné podniky, žiadne rýchle občerstvenia, všetko z organických fariem. Jedlo sme tu nekupovali tak neviem ako drahé ti bolo... Ale mali tu celkom dobrý cykloobchod, stále som mal menšie problémy so zadným kolesom. Poriadne ho skontrolovali a žiadnu vadu nenašli, ja som si myslel že je niečo v oske, potom ma upozornili na moje ošúpané pneumatiky, tak som kúpil nové a naozaj problém bol len v pneumatikách, škoda dúfal som, že USA dokončím ešte so starými. Arcata nad tiež prekvapila množstvom “dharmových“ tulákov, miestne námestíčko vyzeralo ako keby tu organizovali nejaký festival, ľudia tu sedeli pospolu, niektorí bubnovali, niektorí sa len tak povaľovali, vzduchom sa niesla vôňa omamného dymu... Tej už sme sa nezbavili, bolo ho cítiť v celej Kalifornii. Ďalšie mesto, ktorým sme len tak prefičali bola Euréka, zastavili sme sa tu len trochu niečo nakúpiť (tu už boli lacné obchody). Za Eurékou nás čakala 101, ktorá sa zmenila na naozajstné diaľničné monštrum. Najhoršie bolo, že sme museli križovať množstvo výjazdov z diaľnice, blížil sa už večer a veľa šoférov tu na západe ešte nepochopila, že svetlá ma to auto manuálne a treba trochu pohnúť rukou a zapnúť ich, takže blížiace sa autá sme občas ani nevideli, nehovoriac o tom, že sa aj tak hnali príliš rýchlo na to aby sme my s tým mohli niečo spraviť. Z diaľnice sme zišli v Scotii. Podivnom mestečku pod nadvládou miestnej obrovskej píly. Ľudia tu neboli veľmi prívetivý. Brook sa tu snažila vybaviť nocľah v miestnom kostole, ale odmietli ju. Na výhode nás ľudia bez problémov nechali prespať na záhrade, tu sme nepochodili ani na šiesty pokus. Nakoniec nám prastarý nočný strážnik poradil, že môžeme prespať na kúsku zeme nikoho pri diaľnici, ale že na severnom konci, bo na juhu sa teraz potuluje puma čakajúca na nejaké zrazeniny na ceste. Miestečko na severe bolo poblíž trochu podozrivej štvrte, ale strážnik nás prišiel skontrolovať či sme ok a hovoril, že bude tu mať službu po celú noc, milý ujko. Ale aj tak sme spali všetci spolu v jednom stane :-)

After rich breakfast and many thanks to our wonderful host we took bike trail to Arcata, it led us through farmland, between farms, calm road, scenery, no traffic at all. Arcata was a nice hippy town, everything was organic and local, even the bums (or "dharma" tramps?, one piazza looked like some Rainbow gathering) and the clouds of marihuana's smoke, which were our company for the rest of California :-). In one of a few local bike shops (Revolution Bicycle Repair, guys there were really cool, they checked my wheels, and helped me to solve my problem with "bumpy" back wheel, all free of charge, thanks) I bought a new tires, the old one were already too bumpy (it was like to bike on the dirt road all the time). Then we passed through Eureka, crazy traffic there, good Grocery Outlet, a lot of homeless people. Hwy 101 changed to busy freeway with many exits, which was always like to play Russian roulette to cross them, because some driver (it is quite typical for USA) don't bother with using signal lights, they just turn, who cares... (and many drivers especially here on the west coast don't use lights at all until it isn't totally dark, so in the evening they are pretty invisible).
To Scotia, our final destination for tonight, we came after dark. Scotia is small town which exist only thanks to a lumber industry, there is a  huge sawmill. We didn't have any place to stay here, Brook had contact to local church (she stayed also in churches, as an alternative to warmshowers), but it didn't work out here. From east part of USA we had good experience with ask people if we couldn't camp on their backyards, so we tried it here (about six houses in different parts of town), but without success. People here are just weird... Finally one night watchman showed us place where we could stay, it was on the north end of town, near freeway on "no man" land, he told us that south would be also good, but right now they have a "mountain lion" problem there (one female evidently like to go there in the night, looking for roadkills).

Day 164 - 13th November, Redwoods - Trinidad - McKinleyville, 40.27

Dnes opúšťame nádherné sekvoje. Včera nám pribudli traja susedia, dvaja cyklisti a jedna turistka. Baška sa zoznámila s jedným z cyklistov, bola to dievčina menom Brook. Išla z Portlandu do San Francisca. Slovo dalo slovo a po spoločných raňajkách už sme na juh uháňali všetci spolu. Brook bola skoro ako SaraJane, veľa rozprávala, veľa sa smiala a všetko ju nadchýňalo. Hlavne s Baškou si dobre dali a preklábosili školu celý deň. Po tom čo sme opustili sekvoje a dostali sa opäť k pobrežiu, vychutnávajúc si na chvíľu slnko, všetko pohltila hmla. Videli sme niečo ako podivnú hmlovú dúhu, ale potom sme boli nadlho v protivnej, mokrej hmle. Bašku rozbolelo koleno. Na obed sme sa zastavili v Patricks Point State Park, tu sa stal ďalší z malých zázrakov, zrazu hmla zmizla a odhalila nám úžasné pobrežie, potom sa Brook podarilo dovolať jej warmshowers  hostiteľovi pre dnešnú noc a ochotná tetuška súhlasila že prichýli aj nás. To bol nás prvý naozajstný kontakt s komunitou ľudí okolí warmshowers a bol úžasný. Do McKinleyville sme dorazili na večer, opäť bolo sychravo, zima, nevľúdne počasie. Takže to že sme mali strechu nad hlavou malo cenu zlata. Michelle nás vrelo uvítala, navarila fantastickú večeru, mohli sme sa osprchovať, vyprať si a spali sme v ozajstnej posteli. Také malé radosti života :-)

Last day in Redwoods (at least that we thought), yesterday we got tree neighbours, two bikers, one hiker. Baška met two of them (third was some guy from Germany doing 100 miles per day, heading north), one was a girl, hiker, heading north (after travels in South America, she recommended Peru a lot :-)), second one was another girl heading south and her name was Brook. So after a small conversation and a common breakfast we decided to go all together and we had company on our journey again. Brook was really good teammate, after a couple hours we felt like if we knew each other for days. She was a little bit like SaraJane, she likes to smile and laugh a lot and was the same crazy - in a good way :-), she came from the east coast with her friends (partly on bikes, partly on bus) to Portland and from Portland she is pedalling by herself down to San Francisco.

After a rainy yesterday it was sunny today, for a while, until we got to the cost were was pretty foggy. Hwy 101 was quite narrow here, windy. In the fog with only a limited visibility it wasn't very nice, but traffic was small and there was still good (sometimes quite narrow :-)) shoulder. Our hikes in the Redwoods had bad impact also to Baška's legs, one of her knees started to hurt.

After we passed through Big Lagoon, lost in the fog, full of reeds and birds, our lunch break was in Patricks Point State Park. Miracles happen a lot on our journey, and this was another example, because in one moment the fog disappeared and we had perfect view on the whole coast with amazing cliffs and rocks. Even Baška's knee hurt less and Brook called her warmshowers host for today and she was ok with hosting all three of us. So today was our first experience with warmshowers community and it was really amazing. When we arrived to McKinleyville it was nasty cold, wet and foggy weather again, dark already and city traffic. So when we got to the Michelle's house (our warmshowers host) it was like in the heaven. Michelle make a wonderful dinner for us, we did our laundry, took a shower and have nice conversation with our host.

Day 160 - 163 - 9th to 12th November, Redwoods State and National Park

Tri úžasné dni v sekvojových lesoch. Škoda že ich ostali už len okolo 5% z celej rozlohy, zbytok padol za obeť pílam, sekerám a ľudskej chamtivosti, arogancii a hlúposti. Ale aspoň tu ešte stále boli tisícročné lesy (kupodivu vyrástli aj bez lesníkov) a stromy tu boli väčšinou okolo 800 rokov staré, ale videli sme aj gigantov viac ako 1500 rokov starých. Podrast tvorili zväčša paprade a čučoriedky, plus mnoho druhov rastlín a húb. Huby boli všade. Nebolo tu tak vlhko ako v Olympiskom dažďovom pralese ale pod stromami bolo neustále chladivé prítmie, lúče svetla si len ťažko hľadali cestu na zem, koruny stromov dosahovali do 100 metrov. A panovalo tu nádherné ticho, pôsobilo ako elixír po tých hlučných cestách. Dva dni sme sa tu len prechádzali a dýchali, videli sme podivuhodných obrov, pamätajúcich ešte úsvit ľudstva, chodili lesmi, ktoré nepoznali dotyk železa a rástli len tak, pre všetkých. Prešli sme kaňon papradí (Fern Canyon), prechádzali sa po padnutých sekvojách, širokých ako mosty, alebo prechádzali skrz ne cez dutiny o málo menších než železničné tunely. Na tretí deň ma už príšerne boleli nohy (chodil som len v sandáloch s “booties“, ktoré mi hnusne otlačili klenbu chodidiel. Ale ono aj tak skoro celý deň pršalo, takže som sa mohol v pohode kurírovať.

Three amazing days in the Redwoods. First day we biked next to Klamath river and then following coast on the old road (with a few tricky holes) to the Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park. First really, really huge and tall trees. We were so tiny to compare with them.

Tree with hollow where we could fit together with our bikes. Biking in this cool, breathing, green cathedral, rays of sunlight shining through light mist and shadows, everything was here so silent and peacefull.

After our fist brief exploration of huge redwoods near the road we camp in the Elk Prairie Campground (with elks walking and sleeping on the near meadow). Quite nice hiker/biker spot with huge food boxes. In the evening we went out to a small hike on local interpretive trail with beautiful giants redwoods.

The next day was whole about hiking. From the camp our footsteps led to the Fern Canyon through spectacular old grow redwood forest. If you would like to experience something exceptional then go to these old redwoods. This was definitely one if the strongest moments on our journey. Amazingly old forest (more than 1500 years) where every second three was about 1000 to 2000 years old and so huge and wide that 10 people wouldn't be able to surround even a half of the trunk.
We walked on the forest floor covered by old needless, trail led us between ferns and berries shrubs, between fallen and decomposing trees, mushrooms were everywhere and the light was soft and green. And everything was absolutely silence, even birds, maybe because it wasn't season or maybe because the trees were so tall that we couldn't hear them (also the thick bark on redwoods absorb sounds very well). The Fern Canyon was also beautiful, vertical walls, about 30 feet tall were covered by Five fingers ferns and looked pretty fuzzy :-). To our camp we returned pretty late, after dark, so finally we had also a night hike. No luck for mountain lion, though.

Next day, more redwoods, this time east side of valley. First we visited the "Big tree", about 1500 years of giant. Then we hiked through another beautiful forests, trail (Rhododendron trail) led us through the bridge from fallen redwood and through gates from trees which were after fires with huge hollows or holes but still alive (except human's chainsaws, there isn't nothing which can do some harm to redwoods).

Third day is raining nearly whole day, my feet really hurt after that two days of hiking, one thing was that we are not very use to walk so much anymore, second reason was, that I was wearing booties, which kept my feet warm, but also weren't very comfortable and nearly destroyed my feet, well, they aren't supposed to be for hiking. So one day off was good.

Pictures:
Welcome in the Redwoods
Is it still tree?
This is how 300 feet tall trees look like.
Fern Canyon

Day 159 - 8th November, Crescent City - Klamath (Redwoods State and National Parks),

Ako to tu už chodí po včerajšom lejaku je zase krásne, aj keď v Crescent City mesto na vás zahalí hmla, zmeniac veľké mesto na mesto duchov, kopec bezdomovcov ten dojem ešte umocňuje. Nakúpime, kým som v obchode Baška dostáva kopec rád od miestnych duchov ohľadne zaujímavých miest na ceste. Ďalšie rady dostávame v turistických informáciách Elk Creek Redwoods State Parku. Kupujeme si tu aj celkom dobré vesty s logom parku, vesty sa nám budú hodiť a navyše boli zlacnené :-) Za Crescent City začíname stúpať do sekvojových lesov, čaká nás dlhý a náročný stupák s nepríjemnou premávkou, ale aj s peknými výhľadmi “pod seba“. A potom sú tu prvé naozajstné sekvoje, mohutné, obrovské. A po kopci nasleduje výborný zjazd pomedzi tieto úžasné lesy, ešte aj premávka sa umúdri. A to je len začiatok. Míňame hnusnú pascu na turistov, „The Trees of Mysteries“, prechádzame popod klenbu vytvorenú konármi stromov. Pri Hunter Creeku nachádzame opustenú v bočnú cestu, na ktorej rozbíjame tábor. V noci sa nad našim stanom zídu asi všetky sovy z okolia a o niečom celú noc diskutujú.

After rainy night is nice and sunny day. But when we arrived to Crescent City, whole city disappeared in the fog. Suddenly, from sunny day we jumped into grey, depressive atmosphere, we could see only a silhouettes of the buildings, local bumps looked like zombies and the whole city looked like some kind of the ghost town. But until we finished our groceries, the fog was gone (not the homeless people, which were still trying to gave us some good advices about the road ahead, which was nice, but they had driven Baska mad (because she didn't know what to tell them), while I was in the shop). After grocery we stopped in visitor center and got some information about Redwoods State Park and also bought nice vests. Full of enthusiasms we left the Crescent City and started to climb on the top of huge and long hill. It was with nice views  and we pedaled between amazing, huge redwoods, but the road was also narrow, with some parts under construction and with a lot of traffic in the beginning (later, when we got on the top of the first hill it became better). We passed Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park, the trees here were amazing, and it was just beginning. Than we enjoyed nice downhill ride on the coast and passed The Trees of Mysteries which looked like really nasty tourist trap. Near village/town? of Klamath was spectacular tunnel created by trees branches covered by moss. Because it was already evening, we stopped today near Hunter Creek, built our tent on old abandoned side road. In the night the owls had a very loud meeting right above our camp.  

Day 158 - 7th November, Salmon Harbour Resort - Smith River - Crescent City, 13.24 miles

Skoro z rána opúšťame RV park a smerujeme do Crescent City. Najprv nás cyklocesta vedie pomedzi farmy, potom sa vraciame na 101, míňame hodne nepríjemne pôsobiace vezenie. Začínajú sa objavovať prvé sekvoje. Na raňajky sa zastavujeme v malom State Parku pred Crescent City, zmladený, vyrúbaný sekvojový les. Pomedzi mladé stromčeky (u nás by boli považované za riadne veľké stromy) boli stále vidieť gigantické torzá a pne starých stromov. Kým sme zjedli raňajky začalo pršať a pršalo až do rána. Takže sme tu ostali, schovaný v parádnom prístrešku, prakticky v suchu. Aspoň sme sú mohli čítať, čo baterky stačili. Today we woke up very early and left RV park, were we spent the night, before dawn. The Coast Bike Route lead us between farms, off the main road, it was nice, for once biking without traffic. We passed Smith River and returned on Hwy 101, even Bike Route was turning right on D3, but on that road was much heavier traffic. We passed huge State Prison, it was surrounded by redwoods, but still had a very depressive atmosphere. Before Crescent City we stopped in small State Park to make a breakfast. That State Park was actually a small redwood forest, former clearcut evidently, judged by huge, gigantic stumps, which were everywhere. But it had to be a long time ago and now it looked quite nice. Before we returned on the road, it started to rain. So we took our time and have a nice break, reading book and hoping that it will stop soon. Well, it didn't and we spent here rest of the day and also whole night. But it was nice to have a little break.

Day 157 - 6th November, Gold Beach - Brookings - Salmon Harbour Resort, 38.89 miles

Všetko je utopené v hmle, to že tu je nejaký oceán prezrádza len hukot vĺn, pritom podľa názvov to vyzerá, že prechádzame veľmi peknou časťou pobrežia, ale všetko je biele. Prechádzame ponad najhlbší kaňon na pobreží Oregonu. Z hmly sa okrem áut vyrúti nákladiak s drevom, ktoré zásadne šoférujú maniaci neberúci ohľad na ostatných, ani na počasie, nezdalo sa že by ich hmla spomalila. Pár krát nás minuli tak blízko, že som takmer lakťom odrel lak karosérie. Pred mestom Brookings sa hmla konečne rozplynula, odhaliac ďalšie z kamenných skvostov západného pobrežia.  Užívame si posledné chvíle v Oregone, poslednú DQ, v Kalifornii sme už na žiadnu nenarazili. Prichádzame do Kalifornie potme, hneď na úvod nás uvíta nevľúdne kasíno nejakej indiánskej rezervácie. Prespávame v RV kempe.

Biking in the fog. The coast disappeared, sometimes we saw a fragments of some huge rocks our cliff, sometimes logging truck jumped out of the fog and our adrenaline jumped too. We passed many interesting places with a beautiful names like Archers rocks, Natural Bridges, House rock etc., but we saw only a white void. Passed the highest bridge (or the bridge with deepest canyon under it?) in Oregon. The fog finally disappeared when we were near Brookings. So we enjoyed a lunch on another beautiful beach with amazing rocks, then last DQ in Brookings, last miles in Oregon. The first miles in California wasn't very pleasant, even that we were excited to be in the new State. But it was night already (the days are so short now) and we couldn't find any good place to stay and right after border in California was Indian reservation with casino and liquor shops. We tried to get on the shore, but after one local woman told us that this isn't very safe place, we return back to highway and after couple miles we sneak into a RV park and put our tent there.

Day 156 - 5th November, Humbug Mountain - Gold Beach, 25.27 miles

Ráno ešte trocha prší, ale nakoniec dážď ustáva a my vyrážame do zahmleného dňa. Z hmly sa občas vynárajú mohutné skalné veže. Prechádzame okolo smiešneho “dino“ parku. Kopce dnes si celkom v pohode, cesta je viac menej rovná, akurát za Golden Beach začína slušný kopec, ale ešte pred ním je pekná skala pripomínajúca žraločiu plutvu. Spíme na opustenej bočnej ceste.

Still raining in the morning, but luckily about the noon it stopped. Even that we biked in the cold cloudy day, the coast was nice, with rocks like towers standing on the edge of the ocean (after Golden Beach there was one rock which looks like huge tooth), hills were quite easy today, the road was nearly straight. We passed one funny Dino park. Today we found place for for camping on one old side road overgrown by bushes and trees, but with nice flat sandy spot for or tent, a few miles behind Golden Beach.

Day 155 - 4th November, Humbug Mountain State Park, 1.63 miles

Ráno som opravoval môj prvý defekt tu na divokom západe. Kým som s ním bol hotový začalo liať, našťastie sme boli schovaný v komfortnom prístrešku, ďaleko od dotieravých rangerov, takže sme v pohode čakali kým dážď prejde. Menšia chyba bola v tom, že dnes neprešiel, skôr naopak, pršalo stále viac a viac. No čo, deň oddychu sa hodí, aspoň sme si mohli v kľude čítať a vyrábať narodeninový darček pre SJ.

My first flat tire on the west coast. We even did not leave the state park. Hidden in the shelter in the day use area, I started to repair it and outside started to rain and it was raining till next day, so we had day off, in the shelter was water and electricity so we read a book (still Harry Potter) and worked on the blog.

Day 154 - 3rd November, Bandon - Denmark - Port Orford - Humbug Mountain State Park, 48.51 miles

Ráno sme si trochu zašli, pozrieť sa na pláž s majákom, počasie bolo ešte stále ako splašený kôň, takže aj vlny na oceáne boli obrovské, spolu s oloveno šedými mrakmi a skalami vyčnievajúcimi z vody a hmly, vytvárali krásne dramatično, ktoré by mohol zavrieť hocaký škandinávsky filmový režisér. Ďalšia zastávka nad zaviedla k tým dramaticky vyzerajúcim skalám, voľakedy súčasti pobrežia. Po ceste sme si ešte obzreli prekrásnu mokraď/zátoku, plnú bahniakov a kačíc, orly bielohlavé sa tu naháňali s kaňami. Miestni primitívovia tu na okolí vycapili tabule s protestnými heslami, niečo na štýl ako: “zastavme rozširovanie rezervácie“,  atď (skoro to isté ako v Olympicu). Pobrežie pri Bandone bolo fantastické, vlny, skaly/útesy. Okolo slnka bol dúhový kruh. V Bandone nás čakala DQ a menšia dažďová prehánka. Potom sme pokračovali na pobrežie, obdivujúc ďalšie fantastické skalné formácie v oceáne (trocha vulkanickej činnosti a erózie a čo to dokáže za divy). Za Bandonom cesta viedla ďalej od pobrežia, pekne rovná a ani nie veľmi kopcovitá. Na okraji cesty sme našli bicyklový stojan, celkom sa hodil, Baška prednedávnom úspešne zlikvidovala ten svoj (už druhý). Navečer sme prišli do Port Orford, nejakí drsňáci surfovali na vlnách aj keď viac ako 5°C hádam ani nebolo. Do Humbug Mountain State Park sme dorazili opäť za tmy. Kemp bol pekný, aj keď miesto pre hiker/bikerov bolo úplne bokom v kýbli.

Close to the State park was nice lighthouse so first we went there. The weather was dramatic today, the dark clouds were approaching from the ocean, it was windy (luckily tailwind) and the waves were huge. On the north horizon we could see huge rocks pointing out from see, partly hidden in the fog. So our second stop was in Brandon on the coast with these amazing rocks, with round rainbow around the sun. On the way there was small bay with wetland, full of birds, two bald eagles were chasing with harriers, real paradise. But for some people it was probably sore in the eyes because we found around this small reservation similar signs like around Olympic National Park. In Brandon we spent quite a lot of time with grocery, DQ then it was raining a little and then we spent a lot of time on the cost with a really spectacular beach full of amazing rocks. The road to Port Orford was mostly inland, pretty straight, without many hills. We found kick-stand on the side of road, nice, Baška's one is broken (again). Some guys were surfing in the Port Orford, even that it was really cold. To the Humbug Mountain State Park we arrived after dark, they hiker/biker site was so far from camp as if they are afraid from us our something :-)

Day 153 - 2nd November, Sunset Bay S.P. - Bullards Beach State Park, 23.46 miles

Dnes aprílové počasie, príde mrak a je búrka alebo prší, odíde a je krásne slnečno, fúka a je zima, prestane fúkať a je riadne teplo. Ale zväčša nám bolo teplo, bo dnešný úsek cesty viedol cez kopce. Opustiac 101tku v North Bend, cyklocesta nás viedla relatívne opustenými vedľajšími cestami, ktoré mohli byť aj malebné, nebyť všadeprítomných smrekových monokultúr a holorubov gigantických rozmerov meniacich výzor okolitej krajiny na niečo pripomínajúce atómovú strelnicu. Chápem, že tu v USA ešte stále neprišli na to, že domy sa dajú stavať aj z tehál a papier sa dá recyklovať, ale čo je moc je moc...
Späť na 101 a k pobrežiu sme sa vrátili až kúsok pred mestom Bandon. Prespali sme v ďalšom State Parku - Bullards Beach State Park, majú tam výborné sprchy s horúcou vodou.

Strange day, every second cloud brought small storm or heavy rain, it was cloudy and cold, then sunny and warm. And a lot of hills, the desolation of the logging industry, the monocultures and clearcuts as far as we were able to see. Today we were whole day inland, passing through hills, good thing was that there was nearly no traffic. To 101 we returned close to Bandon, were we stayed in nice state park campground near beach ( Bullards Beach State Park - nice hot showers :-)).

Day 152 - 1st November, Honeyman State Park - Reedsport - North Bend - Sunset Bay State Park, 58.18 miles

Kupodivu po včerajšej pľúšti je dnes slnečno a jasno. Vhodný deň na ďalšie americké naj, najväčšie pieskové duny na západnom pobreží. No piesku tu bolo fakt habadej, až som ľutoval, že so sebou nemáme kýblik a lopatičku. Hlavne okolo Dune city boli monumentálne, ani sahara by sa za ne nemusela hanbiť. Ale moc sme sa pri nich nezdržali, bicykle a piesok to sa moc nehodí. Zato motorky alebo buginy to už je o inom, všade na nás útočili reklamy, pozývajúce na strhujúce jazdy po pieskových dunách. Za Dune city sa cesta začala štverať na vršky obrovských, už zalesnených dún (že vraj majú veľké problémy s tým, že im rýchlo zarastajú smrekmi). Z vrcholu boli pekné výhľady, bohužiaľ zväčša sme videli len gigantické holoruby. Potom sa cesta vrátila späť na pobrežie, zbehnúc z dún, takže sme si užili parádny zjazd, teda ja až tak nie, nejako mi blbne zadné koleso. Asi niečo s pneumatikou, možno s oskou, neviem. Pred mestom North Bend sme opäť raz prekonávali rieku po dlhom a úzkom moste, tak ako to v Oregone býva zvykom. Po západe slnka sa výrazne ochladilo a tak do Sunset Bay State Park sme prišli už za tmy a riadne zmrznutí.

It's sunny again, and quite warm. Today we biked on or through many sand dunes "the biggest sand dunes" on the west coast. Especially around Dune City, the edge of the road was sometimes under sand, with high dune above. This place is probably the paradise for all crazy sand dunes 4 wheels and sand buggy riders, motorcycle rentals and offers for tours through sand dunes where everywhere. After Dune City the road climbed on some huge and tall dunes which are already forested. Occasionally we saw another disturbing signs of logging industry - the huge clearcuts and neverending spruce monocultures. Than we left hills behind us and returned to the coast, enjoining amazing downhill ride. Well, I didn't enjoy it so much because my back wheel started to be funny, something is wrong with it, but I wasn't able to figure out what is the problem. Before North Bend we crossed over the river through another long and quite narrow bridge, I think this is quite typically for Oregon's coast. After subset the temperature dropped rapidly, so we arrived quite frozen to the Sunset Bay State Park.

Day 151 - 31st October, Cape Perpetua - Sea Lions Caves - Florence - Jessie M. Honeyman State Park, 29.89 miles

Ráno nachádzame kúsok od kempu nádherný 500 ročný smrek a ešte raz sme navštívili “Diablovu práčku “ (Devils Churn) - asi 300 metrov hlbokú trhlinu v skalnej stene útesu, kde sa trieštila jedna vlna za druhou. Kúsok ďalej bola Thorova studňa, podobná to záležitosť ako Diablova práčka, akurát tu vlny vytvorili v útesoch celkom pekné jaskyne a cez dieru v strope jednej z nich, vždy keď prišla veľká vlna, vytryskol gejzír vody.
Počasie dnes bolo pekne na figu, hmla, mrholenie, vietor. Pobrežie bolo, ale nádherné (ak sme ho videli), útesy a občas nejaký ten maják, na jednom mieste sa pod útesmi rochnili v oceáne tulene. Navštívili sme aj jaskyňu “morských levov “ (Sea Lion, neviem ako sa tento druh tuleňa volá po slovensky), vraj najväčšia morská jaskyňa svojho druhu v severnej amerike (tak zase máme nejaké ďalšie americké naj). Vstupné bolo zľavnené (10$, originálne to bolo za 14$), pretože teraz mimo sezóny sa tu tieto tulene v jaskyni nezdržujú, v sezóne je tu jedna z najväčších tuleních kolónii. Lístky nám predala postaršia bosorka (je halloween). No jaskyňa bola monumentálna, ale žeby som to musel vidieť dva krát... Bola to taká klasická turistická pasca. Ale aspoň sme mohli posedieť v suvenír “šope“ a trocha sa usušiť a keďže tu mali aj wifi, čo to porobiť na nete. Keď sme opustili toto miesto už nepršalo, akurát iba bola hmla, takže sme si užili parádny zjazd v hmle. Vo Florencii sme dokúpili nejaké potraviny, maslo do regálov dokladal superman, keď som zháňal masť tak mi celkom dobre poradil potmavší upír a na záver ma skásla ďalšia bosorka, nehovoriac o tom že zombíkmi, bosorkami, vilami, princeznami a inými pvc bytosťami sa to tu všade len tak hemžilo. Halloween sa tu berie seriózne.

Zakempovali sme navečer v Jessie M. Honeyman State Parku, opäť sme sa tu stretli s párikom švajčiarov, trocha sme si spoločne zanadávali na mývalov, na noc sme museli opäť všetko naše jedlo zavesiť, bo aj tu obchádzala nejaká mývalia rodinka, našťastie po pár útokoch na nich s kameni dali po zvyšok noci pokoj. 

We found out that close to the campground is one 500 years old spruce tree, so we paid it a visit and we also explored Devils Churn - long crack in the cliffs made by waves, with neverending surf. Then we saw Thor's Well, which was something similar as Devils Churn, but the waves were disappearing in the cave and then came out through a small hole in the cave's celling as a geyser. To compare with yesterday sunny weather, today was cloudy and rainy. The rest of day we biked in the rain and fog, with beautiful cliffs or lighthouses on our right side, casually saw or heard the seals from the ocean. We did another stop in Sea Lion Cave, which should be "the biggest" ocean cave in the North America. It was another typical tourist trap, especially now, when the sea lions are not in the cave. The entrance fee was "only" 10$ because of the season. Well, the cave was really spectacular even without Sea Lions, but we could look inside only through small "window" with bars - which was protection for the sea lions. At least we learnt something about seals and sea lions and used internet and dried a little. When we jumped on ours bikes again it was only foggy outside, no rain. This was also ours first long downhill in the fog. In Florence we did some grocery (the grocery store's staff had crazy Halloween costumes and the store was full of witches and vampires...) and than camped in Jessie M. Honeyman State Park, here we met that Swiss couple again and again had some small troubles with raccoons, I don't understand why there are not food boxes in these State Parks, like if the raccoons are a smaller problem than bears...

Day 150 - 30th October, South Beach S.P. - Waldport - Yachats - Cape Perpetua, 27.07 miles

Ráno platíme 20$ za miesto v kempe (keďže nie sme na mieste pre cyklistov), ale keďže sme štyria, tak to vyjde narovnako. Dnes opúšťame Johna, ktorý ostáva v Newporte aby si tu našiel nejakú prácu, keďže posledné peniaze prejedol s nami na zmrzline v Lincoln City. Našťastie Mona mu dala 20$ ako sponzorský dar a my sme mu tiež prispeli. Aj keď sme spolu cestovali len nejaký týždeň, bolo to celkom ťažké lúčenie. Taktiež sme sa rozlúčili s Pete-om, ktorý síce vyrazil na cestu s nami, ale my sme boli predsa len o niečo rýchlejší  :-) Cesta viedla prevažne prázdninovou výstavou a lesom, takže z oceánu sme veľa nevideli, aj keď bolo tu zopár miest s pekným výhľadom a ďalšími sopečnými skalami trčiacimi z oceánu. Skoro rovná cesta sa za Yachats, vyšvihla na útesy a začala sa pekne kľukatiť na pokraji útesu. Ale keďže už bol večer zalomili sme to v najbližšom kempe čo bolo na Cape (mys) Perpetua. Kemp bol zavretý, ale voda tam tiekla, takže to pre nás bolo perfektné, mali sme pre seba celý kemp a nehrozilo, že po nás niekto bude chcieť peniaze :-) spali sme pod prastarým smrekom.

In the morning a ranger came and wanted money for campsite. We haven't been on hiker/biker site so it was 20$ for this site, but it seems that it doesn't matter that we had three tents here (well, Pete did not have a real tent), we paid only one price and then split it between us so it was the same as biker/hiker site.
John really needed to find some job (he spent his last money in that Cold stone creamery in Lincoln town, but Mona, biker from Beverly Beach SP., decided to support his journey and gave him 20$ and we also helped him a bit), so he decided to stay here in Newport. It was amazing to travel with him, in that short time we became really good friends. Very soon we also have to say goodbye to Pete, wished him good luck on his journey to Argentina.
Rest of the day we biked along the coast but mostly thought woods and holiday houses with no good view on ocean. That changed in Yachats where Hwy 101 climbed up on the tall cliffs again. We slept in Cape Perpetua campground, even that it was closed :-)

Day 149 - 29th October, Beverly Beach S.P. - Newport - South Beach State Park, 11.97 miles

Lenivé ráno, Baška učí Johna rozpoznávať jedlé huby, ale John sa stále drží svojich muchotrávok, aj keď teraz len tak “nachuť“. Na raňajkoobed máme korpulentnú praženicu s hríbmi, veľa masti a cibule. Monu, ďalší bajker, ktorá tu s nami bola, mierne triafal šľak, keďže je odborníčka na zdravú stravu a tréner atlétov ako nám neustále opakovala (zase sme sa k slovu veľmi nedostali). Dnes bol lenivý deň, prešli sme len do Newportu. V miestnom bajkšope som kúpil nejaké extra špaile pre naše bicykle, chlapík z obchodu nám rozprával o strednej amerike a dal nám kopec pozitívnych informácií. Tiež sme sa dozvedeli že tu bol Pete (čo je sila, že nás dobehol na jednokolke) a skutočne, keď sme prechádzali cez most tak sme sa s ním stretli. Takže všetci pospolu sme zamierili do kempu na South Beach. Mne prišlo celkom seriózne zle z tej korpulentnej praženice (došlo na Monine slová), takže zatiaľ čo ostatní išli chytať kraby ja som ležal v stane. Našťastie k večeru už mi bolo lepšie a v noci mi už bolo úplne fajn, takže som si trochu zatrénoval streľbu z Johnovho praku na mývali, ktorí sa neustane snažili dostať k nášmu jedlu (mali smolu, tašky sme zavesili na konáre). Zistil som, že tlstý mýval je celkom nepriestrelný.

Baška thought John how to recognize some mushrooms which are not poisonous and really edible. Than they made amazing scrambled eggs with mushrooms and a lot of lard, while Mona was talking and talking about healthy food (she is trainer for athletes and food advisor/scientist), I was mixing whole box of lard with peanut butter and jelly. The final product was quite disgusting, but it's stand for a very long time  :-) Today we didn't bike too much, just to Newport, quite nice town with beautiful beach and lighthouse. In the local bike shop I bought done extra spokes and we talked with bike shop owner about Central America. He spend many years travelling and biking through these counties (and is still alive :-) and highly recommended it. He only warned us not to stay near border in Mexico and w should be careful because a lot of kids like to steal things. When we were crossing the long and narrow bridge to the South Beach State Park we met Pete. He also stopped in the same bike shop as we did, one of his pedals broke and now it was making horrible noise. So we camp all together. In the evening everybody went to hunt crabs, well everybody except me, I was sick from that scrambled eggs with mushrooms, my stomach didn't digest that combination. Crab hunting wasn't very successful, John finally managed to catch one tiny crab, but it escaped before they cooked it, so they cooked some clamish looking things (luckily they were edible and tasted like shrimps). During the night our camp was invaded by greedy raccoon family, but we were ready, our panniers hung on the trees so the raccoons didn't do much damage (only Pete water bottle didn't survived). In the night I felt much better and when raccoons woke me up I used John's slingshot and tried some "moving target" shooting. Well, I realized that raccoon's fur is "slingshot's bullets-proof" and even they didn't like it, it wasn't a reason for them to search thought our camp again and again till the morning.

Day 148 - 28th October, Neskowin - Lincoln City - Beverly Beach State Park, 35.52 miles

Ráno je riadna zima a strašná rosa, kým vylezieme zo stanu (hlavne John vždy spí min. do 9tej), spravíme raňajky, vysušíme strany a všetko pobalíme je zase obed. Škoda inak krásneho dňa. Prechádzame starou 101tkou, kľukatiacou sa cez celkom pekný les, vychutnávame si absenciu áut a nádherný, dlhý zjazd, takmer karpatský štýl. V Lincoln City stretávame švajčiarov, ale nechávame ich ujsť bo narážame na “Cold Stone Creamery“, čo znamená, že si vyberiete určitý zmrzlinový mix, ktorý vám pripravia na hlboko podchladenej kamennej doske, takže sa neroztopí a vyzerá to “cool“. John hľadá nejakých ľudí z “Warm Shovers“  (cyklistická obdoba Couch surfing), ale nikto tu nie je voľný takže ideme do najbližšieho State Parku. Cesta kopíruje pobrežie, opäť sa ukazujú útesy a obrovitánske kamene trčiace z oceánu. Navečer nás cykloznačenie odkláňa na vedľajšiu cestu (Pacifická cyklocesta je v Oregone vyznačená perfektne), takže bicyklujeme po úzkej ceste, kľukatiacej sa po hrane vysokánskych útesov, žiadna premávka a fantastické výhľady na oceán a pobrežie. Slnko po našej pravici pomaly zapadlo do oceánu, všetko bolo červené a oranžové, vychutnávali sme si asi jeden z najkrajších západov slnka tu na pobreží. Už potme prichádzame do Beverly Beach State Park. Na hiker/biker mieste stretávame jednu cyklistku, ktorá prišla z Los Angeles, odborníčka na zdravú stravu, trénerka behu na miestnej univerzite a neviem čo iné ešte. Bola extrémne komunikatívna, ku slovu sme sa veľmi nedostali :-).

Today we woke up very late again (well, John usually sleeps till 9 am) and everything was wet from a dew. But the sky was clear, it seems to be a nice sunny day. Till we dried out tents and finish the breakfast/lunch, it was nearly noon. So in the "morning" we biked on the old hwy 101. It was amazing, no traffic and it goes through old national forest, with long downhill on the end. It goes back to the new 101 hwy in Lincoln City. Here we met again with guys (boy and girl  :-)) from Switzerland. It was unbelievable how much luggage they have. Our bikes seemed to be empty to compare with them. Panniers, trolley fully loaded and each of them had huge backpack. But they were still faster then we, mainly because we found Cold Stone Creamery and did some grocery. John was looking for some Warmshowers hosts but nobody was able to host us. So we continued to Beverly Beach State Park. In the evening the bike path left hwy 101 and followed one of the side roads which led on the edge of gorgeous cliff, very soon the ocean was deeply beneath us, huge waves were been breaking on tall, sharp rocks our disappeared in the one of many caves. Altogether with beautiful sunset it was very nice evening ride. To the Beverly Beach State Park we arrived in the dark. On the hiker/biker site was only one biker, her name was Mona and she came from Los Angeles. We started to talk, but very soon it was only Mona who was talking, we didn't get a lot chance to say pretty much anything  :-)