Thursday, November 20, 2014

Once Upon a Time, There Was a Hurricane...

Sometimes around September 12th 2014, somewhere above the Pacific ocean, Odile was born (we are not sure if Odile is girl or boy, some names in English are very confusing for us). On Friday 13th people in La Paz already knew they should prepare for possibility of a hurricane. Kids and teachers finished at school very early, people who could, finished at work very early, for having enough time to prepare themselves and their houses for a hurricane. Meanwhile, the residents of the house on the top of the hill, next to the transmitter tower, lived their peaceful life without knowing anything. These residents were: Barbora, Martin, Maria – Jonn's girlfriend* and Krim, Jonn's dog, recovering from his bad luck of the last few days: being bitten by rottweiler in Cabo Pulmo (and probably cut in half if it wasn't for Martin being there); then his master left and the people taking care of him now are nice and friendly, but only until they start to tease him with this purple spray they call 'disinfection' and spray it into his wound; and also they mix this disgusting white pill into each of his meals, which forces him to make this unpleasant decision every day: starve or eat this nasty thing?
On Sunday, September 15th Krim is very nervous and doesn't leave the closet (small room without windows) almost whole day. Maria goes to the city and when she comes back (around 2 p.m.), she says: “I have two news for you, one is good and one is bad, which one do you want to hear the first? The good is, that I met my friend who works for a local newspaper and she wants to make an interview with you, she'll call on Thursday. The bad new is, there is a hurricane coming on us!” We consult this information with Mr. Google immediately and see that there is a hurricane of category 4**, at this moment to be found south from Baja, and goes north. Supposedly it's going to hit the southest part of Baja California, which is Los Cabos. (Los Cabos is the
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* Jonn is the owner of this house, currently somewhere in Belgium with his family. We met him two months ago, while hitchhiking from the border back towards Cabo Pulmo. He drove us to La Paz, we became friends and he asked if we didn't want to do house and dog sitting for him in September, while he is visiting his family in Europe. He also said he had met a lady, and he thought she was special. Later we got e-mail from him, that he had met with this lady again and she turned out to be very special. They are in love like teenagers (Maria is in her fifties, Jonn is in his sixties), it was the Love at the first sight. Now they live together and they think they've always known each other :-).
** The categories are based on the wind speed, category 5 is the highest.
name for Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo, two towns, which used to be just fishing villages not so long time ago. But they were found by developers who turned them into tourist resort for the rich and chosen ones, with the big luxury hotels on the beach, each with a big swimming pool, of course, many golf courses and so on. And higher concentration of rich tourists usually attract poor people, who want quick money, so the 'dark side' of Los Cabos are these poor neighborhoods with falling shelters made from garbage, whose inhabitants came from whole Mexico, just few citizens of Los Cabos are originally from here.). According to the online news, many people from Los Cabos had been already evacuated because of the coming hurricane. And then, they suppose, the hurricane Odile is going to direct to the west coast of Baja, which means we won't get the direct hit, as we are on the east coast. But even being on the edge of category 4 hurricane is not much fun and it's better to be prepared. Truthfully, we (Martin and me) are excited that we'll experience our first hurricane, safely in the house (I have this feeling that it wouldn't be much fun being hit by hurricane on the bicycle or while camping :-)), we only regret a little that we won't experience the hurricane in Cabo Pulmo.
Even though I've never experienced a hurricane before, my instinct says “take inside everything you can”. So the big movement begins: furniture, flower pots, decorations and other small things from both of two terraces of Jonn's house (good it's so big). Then Jonn's atelier (Jonn is an artist, painter), John wouldn't be happy if he had to look for his canvases, brushes, colors... all over La Paz. And here comes another challenge: how to protect the windows and glass doors without having plastic windshields like those ones we put on Gordon's house before we left Cabo Pulmo? So it's going to be 'McGyver's solution' - the tape. So we search the whole house for all pieces of duct tape, masking tape, paper tape... which we can use to put them on the windows. Martin wants to take down the big tarps which are around the whole house for making shade, held by metal ropes. But he doesn't know how. Maria and me convince him that it's not necessary...
Since 10 p.m. the wind starts to blow stronger and stronger and by midnight it's quite 'something'. The 'sound effects' are very intense, Meluzina*** sings her loud arias, the windows, doors and tarp-shades joggle... Now we see how useful it was to put all the
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*** Meluzina [maloozeenah] is the word we use for those sounds which wind makes in the house, blowing through the chimneys, pipes and so on. The story says that Meluzina is name of the girl who cries in the houses every time when it's windy. So now you learned something new :-).
things inside, everything heavier than 80 pounds suddenly feels this urge to fly away. We had a big wooden board (around 6x6 feet), which was laying on the floor, weight down by big wooden beam (around 100 pounds). Suddenly the board just disappeared, we've never seen it again. (The beam wasn't aerodynamic enough to fly away, but it was moved on the floor like a hockey puck). I regret I didn't see the board flying away, I still can hardly believe how such a thing could just fly away. “Boom!” What was this? Oh, just big metal barbeque grill fell from the terrace to the ground. “Boom! Boom! Boom!...” And what was this? We'll see in the morning...
We are still checking the satellite images online to see where the hurricane is heading. It looks like the supposed direction isn't changing and now it's said we'd have 'only' category 3 in La Paz. The center of the hurricane is supposed to hit Los Cabos around midnight. But at that time we cannot check it online anymore, because the power just shut off. Being on the top of the hill and having this beautiful view of whole La Paz, we can see that we are the first ones without power, the other parts of the city are still having power. But not for very long. Suddenly there is a green lightening above the city and another part of La Paz stays dark. We saw a few of these green lightenings, caused by the short circuit on the part of electric power line. Within an hour there is just one small part of the city which still has light left. (Probably they have their electric power lines underground? We don't understand why they don't put more lines underground, strong winds which cut the wires not being so unusual here...).
We've been told by locals, that there are two types of hurricanes here: first which brings very strong wind and second which brings more rain. The second type is less dangerous during the hurricane, but brings lot of damage after, creating big floods. Odile is the first type. But each hurricane brings both – wind and rain, the question is, how much and how strong. Around the midnight it starts to rain. Which makes the whole situation even more intense, bringing new sound effects and new 'entertainment' for us – moping the floor. Since we came to Mexico, we haven't seen a water resistant house yet. For creating the window or door they just make a hole in the wall and put the window or door there. That's it. No sealing or filling in the gaps (or just very little). Therefore it's nothing unusual to find a gap between the door/window and the wall which is a few millimeters thick. So we are having small waterfall under the door, which brings also leaves and mud.
The rain is becoming weaker, the waterfalls under the doors are caught into the towels, we have already got used to all those strange sounds and vibrating of the windows and doors and we are tired, so it's time to go to sleep. Maria said, that without the tape the windows would be already broken. Although this house is protected from the south side (where the wind comes from) by high concrete wall. Maria had already experienced one hurricane, when the windows were broken by strong wind and her legs were cut by pieces of broken glass. That's why she rather goes to sleep in the closet without windows, with Krim. Martin and me go to the bed in the guestroom, which is in another part of the house, so we need to walk ca. 40 feet through outside. The outside conditions are not very pleasant, I must say... :-)
We've been sleeping maybe for one hour, when we were waken up by loud “boom” directly into our glass door, 4 feet from our bed. What happened? Martin's worries became true – the big shade above our entrance had broken, and now one of it's metal corners, which were supposed to hold it in the wall, is not in the wall anymore, but hitting our door. Another “boom” and for the first time during this hurricane, we are scared. If the door breaks, we'll get the 'rain' of broken glass pieces directly on our uncovered bodies (even during the hurricane it's still very hot, especially inside of the concrete building without the air condition). Before the heavy metal piece hits our door next time, we run into the bathroom. It's 3 a.m., hurricane Odile is in his/her stronger phase here. The sound effects were intense and interesting before, now they are super intense and very scary. Every once in a while we hear another 'boom sound' or breaking sound. What was it? The tape couldn't hold the window anymore? What did just hit the roof? What is Maria doing? Is she ok? Now we are regretting our decision to come here, we feel trapped. And those wind blows are just incredible! We make our “bed” from the towels and pillows in the shower, because it's the best protected area of this part of the house. One more “boom” to our door from the metal corner of the tarp and then the whole tarp finally falls on the ground. We are grateful for that.
What's going on? The wind is little weaker for a while... that's our chance, now or never! Cross the paddle of water, leaves and mud on the floor, carefully open the door and hold it strong, so it doesn't get blown away and run, run, as fast as possible, cover the head with the hands, just in case of some flying objects... The concrete path is completely covered with leaves, branches, pieces of broken flower pot, concrete, looks really apocalyptic, but there is no time to look around. And we don't see much, the whole La Paz is in darkness now. When we closed the door of the house, we are finally feeling some relief, we are safely inside. All the windows are still ok, even though vibrating vigorously, but still holding together. Maria and Krim are lying on the ground of closet together, Maria says the whole floor is vibrating. She is grateful we are here and we helped her to prepare for this (she wouldn't put inside all the things we did) and my masking tape saved the situation too... We hope that the windows and doors can hold it longer...
After moping the paddle of the water in front of the door, we make our bed in the bathroom (there is no more room in the closet :-)). Listening the wind blowing and hitting sounds and feeling the vibrations of the whole house I cannot fall asleep for a long time. But we are all sleeping before the dawn.


 Later we found out, that Odile was the strongest hurricane La Paz has experienced in the modern history. It was category 3, but very close to category 4, the wind speed 22o km/hour (140 miles/hour). Quite a wind. I can't even imagine what category 5 must be...

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